Problem solving techniques
The following problem techniques, which
have been successfully used at the Dan Eisen International
Independent Analysis Service, and may help you avoid a claim.
Denim
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Problem: Color loss in drycleaning or
wetcleaning.
Solution: Put garment in water with liquid
bluing.
Fusible fabrics
Fabric facts: Two fabrics held together by
an adhesive binder.
Problem: Separation.
Solution: Steam on press. Apply head
pressure, top steam, vacuum with head down. Next try a hot head
press if fabric permits. Sometimes spraying with a little water
soluble sizing may help.
Gabardine
Fabric facts: A tightly woven twill weave.
Problem: Shine.
Solution: 1) Try spraying with water while
steaming and brushing with velvet brush.
2) Spray with 28% acetic acid. Allow to
dry and dryclean.
3) Use an emery cloth or find sandpaper to
slightly rough up the ridges and reduce light reflection.
Rayon
Fabric facts: Synthetic fabric made from
cellulose.
Problem: Discoloration due to sizing
shifting.
Solution: Use fogging process. Steam
affected area with steam gun held a few inches from fabric and
dry with air. Wetclean as a last resort.
Silk
Fabric facts: A natural fabric obtained
from the silk worm.
Problem: Loss of luster and
discolorations.
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Extract lightly and dry.
Caution: Soaking garments in pails with
perc may be illegal in areas due to EPA regulations. Dye pads
are also effective.
Acetate
Fabric facts: Heat sensitive thermoplastic
in nature.
Problem: Delustering caused by water and
steam in pressing.
Solution: Spray with 14% acetic acid.
Allow to dry. Dryclean. Repeat if necessary.
Acrylic
Fabric facts: Heat sensitive.
Problem: Stretching.
Solution: Place on the buck of the
pressing machine and gather in stitched areas so little waves
are created. Use a hand iron held a few inches above fabric and
apply steam from iron while vacuuming. Do not touch.
Angora
Fabric facts: The fur from an angora
rabbit.
Problem: Shrinkage.
Solution: Soak in water to which a
cationic detergent and softening agent has been added.
Soak for 15 minutes. Rinse. Extract. Dry
for two minutes. Place on buck of pressing machine. Steam and
pull fabric and then vacuum.
Chenille
Fabric facts: A knit fabric with a pile
yarn.
Problem: Loops unraveling.
Solution: Use a latch type needle to
correct.
Cotton
Fabric facts: Vegetable fiber.
Problem: Acids cause a color change.
Solution: Flush area and apply a mild
alkali.
Problem: Pre-spotting caused a discolored
or light area.
Solution: Routine wetcleaning often cures
this. Use a mild detergent.
Problem: Dye bleeding after wetcleaning.
Solution: Wetclean fabric again using
extra agitation and a long extraction. Dry quickly on a steam
air finisher.
Suede and leather
Problem: Steam causes skin to shrink.
Solution: Spray on 15% acetic acid.
Carefully stretch skin. Add neutral spray. Allow to dry.
Dryclean.
Problem: Glue bleed.
Solution: Soak in perchloroethylene
solvent. Reclean.
Vinyl
Fabric facts: A plastic fabric that is
kept soft with a plasticizer.
Problem: Loss of plasticizer in cleaning
causes fabric to turn stiff.
Solution: Obtain commercial plasticizer
from the distributors. Follow manufacturer's instructions for
soaking or spraying.
Wool
Fabric facts: Animal Fiber
Problem: Chafing.
Solution: Straight edge razor or electric
razor. Hold fabric taut when attempting correction.
Problem: Shrinkage.
Solution: See angora.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
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