Getting the full story
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Sometimes the best solution to a problem is making sure the problem never occurs in the first place, especially when it comes to drycleaning.
Washington Times reporter Ann Geracimos
found that out recently when she paid a visit to the
International Fabricare Institute’s textile testing and
garment analysis labs in Laurel, Maryland. Text of the article
on the Washington Times web site.
Her article, “Wear, tear of
fabrics,” was featured in the “Science &
Technology” section in the February 3 edition of the
newspaper.
In it, she recounted the scientific
proceedings that go on inside IFI’s labs.
“‘Fact’ is a key word
in these precincts, where test results are duly noted in formal
reports similar to those found in any pure science lab,”
she wrote. “Equipment on-site is a mix of high- and
low-tech, with many of the testing methods derived from the
Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. They include
microscopic examinations to identify the nature of fabric
damage, examination under ultraviolet light, and the use of
chemical indicators in addition to equipment replicating
various dry and wet cleaning processes.”
She went on to describe a number of the
testing machines as “a cross between a medieval
alchemist’s chamber and a fitness center.”
The whole process may have looked a
little confusing, but the underlining purpose was quite simple.
“The goal in this lab is to see who
was responsible — whether because of a defect in the
garment, a mistake in its construction or the lack of proper
cleaning instructions,” noted IFI spokesman Jay Calleja.
Demonstrations and technical explanations
for Geracimos were provided mostly by Textile Testing
Technician Eleanor Brooks. However, researcher Elke Cary and
garment analyst Chris Allsbrooks also provided some of the
testimony.
On the topic of problem prevention,
Allsbrooks provided a good example for the article.
“The institute often is the last
word in settling differences between a cleaner and his
customer,” the article stated. “Technician Chris
Allsbrooks one morning recently carefully inspected a
woman’s chenille suit jacket that had a tendency to form
loops on the surface, possibly from being handled by
drycleaners. The suit should be able to withstand normal wear
and tear, she judged. She would alert the manufacturer to
forestall future problems.”
Geracimos also detailed a troublesome
issue encountered by After Hours, a Georgia-based formalwear
rental company which had contracted IFI to test fabrics of
various weights used in its tuxedos.
“Many jackets were coming back
marred by slight abrasions — possibly as a result of
contact with prickly sequins and beads worn by female dance
partners,” she explained.
Brooks took samples of various fabrics
submitted and applied them to a tiny motorized spike wheel
known as a “dagger snagger machine.”
“What they want me to do is
run this beaded sequin fabric on the snagger and see it next to
the tuxedo satin,” Brooks informed Geracimos.
Ultimately, the customer wanted to know
under what conditions would cause snagging in the fabric so
they can decide which will be the most durable to use.
Geracimos emphasized how IFI does similar
tests with tensile-strength machines on the premises which
determine how long it will take before a fabric that is
stretched between heavy iron pincers breaks.
Such testing is useful to a variety of
other industries, including suppliers of sheets and towels to
hotels and of napkins for restaurants.
“Both need to know the durability
of fabrics and the ability of cleansing agents to get rid of
stains,” Geracimos said.
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