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Bringing out the best in the best
 just completed a series of spotting and wetcleaning seminars involving the most elite and best cleaners in America. I taught 40 members of America’s Best Cleaners, including traveling to La Nouvelle in Denver, CO. Most recently I went to New Orleans to instruct the staff at One Cleaners.
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When instructing high-end cleaners, I do not use practice cloths since the actual success of the consultation is the result on the garments received in the store.
Preparation
The first thing that I do is to make sure that the cleaners have the proper chemicals for stain removal and wetcleaning. The list includes basic spotting chemicals such as protein formulas and tannin formulas.
Further spotting success involves having such chemicals such as acetic acid, oxalic acid, hydrofluoric acid, sodium percarbonate, sodium hydrosulphate, hydrogen peroxide, potassium permanganate, sodium bisulphate, sodium hypochlorite, and hypo crystals.
The wetcleaning chemicals involved are anionic, cationic and nonionic detergents.
I want to thank the following chemical companies for providing many of these chemicals, literature and cooperation in aiding the drycleaner: A.L. Wilson, Kreussler, U.S.A, and Laidlaw.
The basic idea in high-end cleaning is to handle all garment problems and difficult staining efficiently and safely. It is also important to find solutions to problems without sacrificing the integrity of the fabric.
The following problems were received at One Cleaners in New Orleans.
Problem: White wedding gown with wine staining. The gown could not be agitated in the machine due to the fragile nature of the beading.
Solution: We checked out the fabric and its safety to wetcleaning. We tested out the spotting formulation that would remove the staining. We placed the garment in a net bag and immersed the garment in the wetcleaning solution. We agitated the garment by hand, rinsed and hung to dry.
Result: Removal of all stains safely.
Problem: Gold gown with heavy tannin stains. Wetcleaning or drycleaning would have been hazardous to this fabric.
Solution: The gown was spotted locally using the tannin method of stain removal. Proper feathering was also required to prevent rings from the extensive spotting used. Soil was removed locally. The entire hand cleaning process took approximately 10 minutes with 100 percent success.
Problem: Off-white discolored draperies. The draperies were brought in for restoration.
Solution: We tested a small area to find out what would remove the discoloration. We tested the drapery using hydrogen peroxide and ammonia which showed good results. This meant that a sodium perborate bath would be effective.
We added the proper lubrication to the wetcleaning bath to inhibit shrinkage.
Result: Complete restoration.
Problem: Black leather slacks. It was brought in with staining and color loss. The customer needed it the next day.
Solution: The staining was removed locally as well as the soil. The color loss was replaced successfully.
Problem: One Cleaner handles about 40 percent of its garments in wetcleaning. To remove the dryside staining, they were drycleaning the garments first before wetcleaning. This was both time consuming and costly.
Solution: We met with the wetcleaning supplier and worked out a wetcleaning formulation to solve the problem. Greasy residue can be best treated by using a non-ionic detergent additive. The formulation can be further activated by using alkali.
Problem: Silk and wools were too harsh after wetcleaning. They required drycleaning after processing to soften the fabric.
Solution: Different wetcleaning formulation was needed. We showed how wetcleaning using cationic detergents and softening agents created a softer feeling fabric.
Problem: Felted and shrunken wool sweater.
Solution: We softened the fabric using very high concentrations of cationic detergents and softening agents. The sweater became pliable and could be stretched to a large extent.
The new spotting procedure that was taught at One Cleaners produced better stain removal. Claude Foreman, the owner, especially liked the use of oxalic acid incorporated in the spotting procedure. The proper use of digesters also provided a safer way to approach some staining on the vivid colors of silk and wool.
Tannin procedure
• Flush
• Neutral lubricant
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Tannin formula
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Acetic and lubricant
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Oxalic acid
• Heat
• Flush
• Rust remover
• Heat
• Flush
• Neutralizer
• Flush
• Bleach
Protein procedure
• Flush
• Digest
• Flush
• Neutral lubricant
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Protein formula
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Ammonia and neutral lubricant
• Mechanical action
• Flush
• Bleach
 



Dan Eisen is the former chief garment analyst for the Neighborh