Detergent-conditioner overview
he charge levels of
a detergent conditioner like Royaltone Detergent Plus
Conditioner that are necessary to protect color and natural
oils in skins of suedes, leathers and furs in drycleaning are
the minimum levels below which color and natural oils may be
lost. Higher charge levels can be used without a problem, but
not lower charge levels.
Drycleaning processing time
and temperature
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Processing time and drying temperature
(see chart at right) is different for each type of drycleaning
fluid used for drycleaning suede, leather and fur garments just
as it is different for drycleaning cloth garments.
The following is a summary to be used as
a guide to obtaining good drycleaning action and proper drying:
Key points to remember
When drycleaning leather, suede, fur and
cloth trimmed with any of these trim items, there are some
basic key points to remember. If these key points are kept
foremost in the operator’s mind, many problems can be
avoided as well as many needless calls for consultation.
First, if color loss is occurring in
drycleaning, the reason is almost always because the
concentration of the detergent plus conditioner is too low!
To maintain the charge at the proper
level in charged systems where the reclaimed solvent is piped
back into the base tank containing the charged solvent, add the
detergent plus conditioner as follows: for 6 percent systems
add one ounce for each one pound of sheepskin, cowhide,
pigskin, etc., drycleaned.
In the case of 2 percent systems, add one
ounce per three pounds drycleaned. For 3 percent systems, add
one ounce per two pounds drycleaned.
Color loss on trim
Never rinse with uncharged drycleaning
fluid after you have drycleaned suedes or leathers with the
detergent plus conditioner or color loss will result.
Second, if the finish is coming off the
surface of a painted slick leather, the reason is almost always
that the cleaning run time is too long. Do not clean painted
leathers more than three minutes.
Loss of leather finish
Third, if the machine being used to clean
the suedes, leathers or furs is groaning, drive belts are
squealing and slipping and drum bearings are knocking, the
reason is almost always that the machine is overloaded. Clean
suedes and leathers at one-half the dry weight poundage
capacity as a maximum. For example, if your cleaning machine
has a 60-lb. dry weight capacity, clean no more than a 30-lb.
dry weight load of suedes or leathers.
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Other things to keep in mind
Remove heavy hardware where possible
before cleaning. Also, remove high buttons and wood buttons as
they can be a nuisance when the garment is being pressed.
Remove buckles also as they could break or otherwise be damaged
in cleaning. Watch for “candy” reinforcement (stay)
buttons and test with drycleaning fluid before drycleaning so
that if they melt you can remove them before cleaning.
For machines with a level control for
drycleaning fluid level in the washer, keep the setting below
one-half.
Clean and check button traps regularly.
Use a fine mesh lint screen in the button trap of the
drycleaning machine or a lint filter to screen out suede lint.
Clean the screen after every load.
If a garment does not look as clean as
you expect after it is cleaned, prespot it again, wait one hour
and reclean it the same way as originally cleaned. Only about 1
percent of the sueded leather garments you clean should ever
have to be recleaned.
If a sueded leather garment has some
traces of staining left after drycleaning, or if there is a
crusty stain left on the surface of the suede, surface spot by
brushing the nap smoothly and evenly in all directions with the
Abrasive Strip which is a medium grit emery cloth. This will
very often remove what is left of the stain. This procedure may
be done either before, during or after the pressing stages. For
extensive re-dos or extensive protein stains consider
wetcleaning.
Vacuum your drycleaning reclaimer dryer
“lint bags” very often. (Vacuum at least after
every two loads.)
Most glued hems will come down in the
drycleaning. These should be re-glued with a permanent suede
and leather glue. Use just enough glue to do the job. Once dry,
it will not come out when recleaned wet or dry and will not
bleed through or become stiff or hard. Glue after pressing or
wait for glue to thoroughly dry before pressing.
Mending torn places
Alterations and repairs on suede and
leather garments should be done by an experienced operator
using special leather needles and leather sewing machines.
Mending rips and tears is done by patching from the underside
using the permanent glue to bond the patch.
Always hang up leathers and suedes
immediately after drying. Straighten collars, cuffs, pocket
linings, etc. For a good looking package, hang suedes, leathers
and furs on a heavy duty hanger or a formed hanger.
Note: Use of equipment, materials or
techniques other than those specified in this article may not
produce the same results.
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