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Using light to examine garments
The doctor who examines you often uses light when inspecting your nose, ears and throat. I am advocating similar examination when you inspect fabrics for damages and stains.
Flashlight
A small flashlight will give you more insight on stains and damages than you can notice under ordinary light. When you shine a flashlight on stains you will see the make-up of the stains more clearly.
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For example, concentrated light on tannin stains shows the intensity of the staining on the outer edges rather than a uniform staining. These stains include soft drinks, liquor, tea, coffee, etc.
Concentrated light on protein stains will reveal an irregular pattern to the stains. This is characteristic of stains such as egg, milk, ice cream, etc.
Oil stains will show a uniform staining that does not have sharp outer rings. The flashlight can also be used on back of the fabric. This will give a different perspective to the staining than when it is observed on the front of the fabric.
So for tannin stains, dark rings become more apparent, protein stains show an irregular pattern with some translucent effect, and oil stains will show a uniform translucent effect.
Damages
When concentrated light is used on the front of the fabric you will see imperfections on the fabric more clearly. When a flashlight is aimed at the back of the fabric and you observe the front of the fabric, the imperfections are more distinct.
Ceiling light
You can also check staining and damages using ceiling light. Hold the garment up to the light source and view the staining and fabric on the front.
Ultraviolet light
Ultraviolet light gives you a different perspective on stains, fabric damages and trimmings. Examination under ultraviolet light will show greater differences than using incandescent light. Some stains and fabric damages will darken under ultraviolet light while in some cases they will glow.
As you become more experienced with ultra-violet light you will find examination easier to do. The customer will also be more confident in your expertise and professionalism.
In 1996, I invented, patented and produced a light box called Spectralight (Patent #5,572,319). The Spectralight uses the effects of light to study fabrics, dyes and stains and to reveal hidden stains, flaws in fabrics, weak areas, identify stains and reveal the composition of stains.
The Spectralight can be useful to people in textiles, garment analysis, museum curators, conservators, restorers, manufacturers and retailers of clothing and textiles.
Drycleaners using the Spectralight can explain hidden damages to customers and stains that may not be removable. This will avoid possible claims.
The light box was produced, sold and is still currently being used by many cleaners throughout the country and abroad. The original Spectralight was a unit which, although mobile, had to be plugged in and set on a table or counter.
Portable Spectralight
The new six-inch Portable Spectralight utilizes a black light and is small enough to keep in your pocket. It uses 4 AA batteries and can be brought to the counter and carried to different sites to be used for examining fabrics.
The black light is used to determine fluorescent dyes, oxidized stains, weak areas and unserviceable trimmings. The Portable Spectralight also has a hand strap that makes it convenient and easy to operate.
The Portable Spectralight gives the cleaner the same professionalism as a doctor when the doctor uses a light. When explaining a problem to a customer, the cleaner’s explanation is reinforced by the professionalism exhibited. Madame Paulette Cleaners in New York still uses the Spectralight and recommends it to the member cleaners of America’s Best Cleaners.
Drycleaners often have a difficult time explaining invisible stains, set stains and fabric limitation to customers at the counter. The Portable Spectralight gives the cleaner a professional tool that can clearly explain the limitation of fabrics and the difficulty of set stains.
Customers can be professionally advised of the problems associated with set stains. A common problem is discolored areas due to loss of fluorescent dye. Customers can be warned that some stains are not correctable due to the limitations of the fluorescent dyes used on the fabrics.
The spotter is also in need of a tool that can aid in identifying stains as well as indicating when spotting procedures should be stopped to avoid loss of fluorescent dye and other damages.
We found that concentrated black light, like the one used in the Portable Spectralight, in a confined area will cause many staining substances to glow. This includes chloride salts, tannin stains and protein stains. The degree of glow is diminished as the stain oxidizes from age, heat or attempts at stain removal.
The Spectralight can also be used to reveal the identity of stains by the transparent characteristics the stain shows when examined with concentrated light. Tannin stains will reveal the brown composition of the stain while the albumin will become visible in protein stains. Oil stains will be uniformly translucent.
We have also developed a way Spectralight can be held to scan silks for shifting, weak areas and other flaws. This can also be used to determine weakness in draperies and curtains.
Trimmings can also be examined with the Spectralight. It has been found that the unserviceable trimming will show a fluorescence while the serviceable one does not. Although this is not a positive identification, customers will appreciate the professionalism displayed. Further tests would still require using amyl acetate. I feel the Spectralight should be used by every drycleaner and spotter since customers view drycleaners by the professional approach they take.


Dan Eisen is the former chief garment analyst for the Neighborh