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The safety of the wetcleaning process depends upon the fiber content, yarn structure and finish used.

The fiber content determines the shrinkage characteristics.

Natural fibers such as animal and vegetable (cotton, wool, silk, linen and some rayon) shrink easily.

Thermoplastic fibers such as nylon, polyester, acrylic and acetate will resist shrinkage unless excess heat is used.

Natural fiber will also wrinkle and lose pleats more readily then thermoplastic fiber.

Yarn structure determines shrinkage characteristics. A high twist yarn, such as crepe, will shrink more readily than a low twist yarn.

A wool crepe will shrink more readily then a wool of low twist yarn.

Worsted yarns using longer wool fiber will have less shrinkage properties than a wool yam.

Natural yarns and rayon have less strength when wet and mechanical action becomes critical.

The finishing agent used on the fabric is also a determining factor in garment safety to wetcleaning.

A heavily sized silk, rayon, cotton and linen may lose its original feel and texture when wetcleaned.

Although finishing agents can be applied, its original finish and texture may not often be duplicated.

The garment construction should also be evaluated when wetcleaning.

For example: a wool knit sweater can usually be wetcleaned, but a wool jacket can often not be.

The wool jacket has different components such as padding, lining, and fusible fabric that may shrink and produce difficult finishing.

A silk blouse can usually be wetcleaned but a silk wedding gown may be risky.

The silk wedding gown is usually impregnated with sizing agents that will be removed during wetcleaning, This usually can not be restored.

Further problems may include difficulty in pressing due to trimming and multi-layered fabrics.

It is impossible to know the exact chemistry of how a fabric has been dyed. Vat dyes are considered the best and more stable of the dyes available. Some of the many other dyes available are azoic, sulphur, direct, developed, basic, acid, chrome and disperse dye. Dyes can be applied in the fiber, yarn piece goods stage. Dying in the yarn or fiber stage usually provides a durable and fast dye.

It is more advisable to judge color fastness by the characteristics of the fiber and careful testing.

The dyes used on wool and silk are generally affected by alkali, ammonia and protein formula. When spotting sensitive colors, digesting can be used instead of alkali or protein and albuminous stains.

Silk fabrics are also sensitive to alkali, ammonia and protein formula. Some dyes are also positive to contact with water. This frequently occurs on yarn-dyed fabrics.

Cottons and linens

These dyes are usually affected by mechanical action, especially with a dryside or wetside lubricant. Acid will tend to bleed some dyes

Some dyes are fugitive to water.

These dyes are sensitive to strong acetic acid and chemicals containing alcohol, such as oily-type paint remover and general formula.

These dyes are imparted to the yarn in a liquid form and are locked into the fiber. These dyes are stable and will generally not bleed unless in contact with excessive heat.

These dyes are added to white or colored fabrics. Fluorescent dyes increase the whiteness of a white fabric and brightness of a colored fabric.

Fluorescent dyes change invisible ultraviolet light to visible light to increase the whitening an brightening effect.

The fluorescent dyes on wools and silks are affected by alkali. The fluorescent dye on cottons, linens and rayons can be affected by some acids. The fluorescent dyes on thermoplastic fabrics are usually stable.

Prints are color patterns applied after the fabric has been woven. The prints applied are numerous. They include direct, resist, discharge, pigment flock and screen.

The fastness of the dye to wetcleaning can be judged by fiber content and penetration of the print into the fabric.

Pigment and metallic prints are held to the surface of the fabric by an adhesive binder. These prints are usually durable to the wetcleaning process.

The detergent used, however, should be anionic to prevent loosening of the adhesive binder.

The mechanical action of spotting and non-ionic detergent should be limited to prevent loosening of the print. The print on silk is frequently affected by water or alkali.

Flock prints are fiber held to the fabric by an adhesive binder. Flock prints are usually more stable to wetcleaning, but the color fastness may have limitations. This means the dye in the flocked fiber can bleed when in contact with water.

It is important to test colors for fugitive dye prior to wetcleaning The fastness of the dye determines the risks taken for wetcleaning to reduce the risks.

Dye solubility or fugitive dyes

Place a clean towel under an exposed area of the garment.

Apply a synthetic detergent to the area and flush with the steam gun held two inches from the fabric.

Note the extent of bleeding on the towel.

Repeat the test using an acid or alkali to determine if dye bleeding is reduced or increased.

Garments with fugitive dyes can never be soaked. They must be run with constant agitation to prevent permanent dye migration.

Garments that are agitated are less likely to have dye transfer than garments that are soaked.

Wet a clean towel with a synthetic detergent. Rub an unexposed area and note the extent of dye loss and transfer to cloth.

A fabric that is subject to dye crocking is best wetcleaned by soaking or turned inside out with limited or reduced mechanical action.

Dye setting agents

• Cationic detergent.

• Acids: add to cationic detergents (1 ounce per gallon of water)

• Salt: One tablespoon per gallon of water.