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Wetcleaning suede and leather
A growing concern for the environment has spurred the search for more environmentally friendly methods of cleaning suedes and leathers. The result was the development of the wetcleaning process which has been called the ultimate processing method for cleaning suedes and leathers.
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Wetcleaning is the industry term used to describe washing or laundering drycleanable articles using water as the cleaning fluid and additives like water soluble detergents, conditioners and auxiliary treatments like water repellents and sizings.
Washing suedes and leathers can be found in the processes performed in tanneries where the skins of animals are made into leather.
Washing the skins in water is used extensively throughout the tanning process, which starts with washing the salt-cured, blood-soaked skins after they arrive at the tannery from the slaughter houses, continues throughout the tanning process with treatments that use water as the liquid carrying agent for the tanning chemicals and dyes as well as for rinsing them out and ends with a fine spray of water on the leather to establish the final desired moisture level in the skins.
In more developed countries like the United States, wetcleaning of suedes and leathers was not used to process all items because drying was time-consuming compared to modern high production oriented leather drycleaning operations.
In less developed countries, wetcleaning of suedes and leathers was quite common because these nations did not possess the capital, technology, machinery, solvents or chemicals for modern, efficient, high-quality leather drycleaning.
However the advent of modern wetcleaning products and equipment enables leather cleaners to meet environmental concerns and wetclean suedes and leathers safely and efficiently.
Wetcleaning can be especially advantageous for items with water soluble stains like blood or milk soaked into the suedes or leathers as well as for wetcleaning distressed leathers or items trimmed with vinyl. Wetcleaning these items could be the only way to safely clean and restore them to a usable condition.
Wetcleaning equipment and machines
Suede and leather wetcleaning equipment can be as simple as a bucket, a sink, a tub or some other type of of container. It can be done in a simple washing machine like a small home washer if volume is not too great. A home washer can wetclean four to 12 suedes or leathers an hour!
It can also be done in larger, standard commercial laundry washers for greater output.
Or it can be done in modern wetcleaning machines equipped with washing cycle programs that control drum rotation, mechanical agitation, timing of multiple cycles, water temperature, water level injection of additives, extraction speeds and duration etc.
In most cases, the cycles of these machines can be custom programmed in accordance with information from the detergent and additive manufacturers.
Wetcleaned items can be dried by hanging to dry in the air, by tumbling in a cool tumbler, or in a special dryer that can be programmed to sense and control moisture level and temperature.
An existing washer can be used to start wetcleaning suede and leather. Drying can be accomplished by hanging or tumbling in a cool tumbler. The home washer will do if no other wetcleaning equipment is available. Or the shirt laundry washer can be used if it is available. One or two pieces of old suede or leather can be wetcleaned to build confidence. From there it is off to the races!
Wetcleaning additives and supplies
The additives used to wetclean suedes and leathers must be biodegradable, non-hazardous, non-flammable and non-solvent in order to meet government regulations when the used wash water is dumped into existing sewer systems.
In addition, they must be able to restore suede and leather to its original softness, without glue bleed problems, without shrinkage, without color loss, without color bleed on multicolored items or cloth, suede, leather or vinyl combinations.
The most important additives required to wetclean suedes and leathers are the prewash dye fixer, the main wash detergent conditioner and the final rinse conditioner.
The purpose of the detergent is to remove and suspend water soluble soils to prevent them from redepositing on the items being wetcleaned in warm or cold water.
The purpose of the conditioner is to protect the softness and to prevent color loss and bleeding of the dyes during the main wash cycle. Ideally these two additives should be combined into a single product such as in Royaltone’s Prosuede Wet.
The next most important additive required to wetclean suedes and leathers is a prefinish softener conditioner, like Royaltone’s Leather Soft conditioner rinse. The purpose of this additive is to provide added softness and to aid in finishing.
The next important additive is a prewash dye fixer, like Royaltone’s Leather Fix. The purpose of this prewash additive is to set dyes that testing indicates are water soluble.
Other additives that are useful include a sizing, like Royaltone’s Leather Size, to restore body and firmness to items that contain water soluble sizing.
While most water soluble stains can be removed from suedes and leathers in wetcleaning, some prespotting may be necessary with a biodegradable color safe wetcleaning prespotter like Royaltone’s Leather Magic.
Oily solvent soluble stains like paint, oil, grease, etc. must be removed by using a non-oily water soluble POG spot remover, like Royaltone’s Spot Magic, prior to wetcleaning any suede or leather. The non-oily POG will flush out in the wetcleaning without leaving an oily ring like with oily type POGs.
Likewise ink stains must be removed prior to wetcleaning with a non-oily water soluble ink remover, like Royaltone’s Ink Magic.
To start wetcleaning suedes and leathers, the key additives to use in an existing washer are a prewash dye fixer, a main wash detergent conditioner, like Royaltone’s Prosuede Wet detergent plus conditioner, the final rinse softener, like Royaltone’s Leather Soft Softener conditioner, and a leather prespotter.
Note: Products other than those described in this article for wetcleaning suede, leather and cloth trimmed with suede or leather, may not give the same results if used as described in this article.

Frank Lucenta is president of Royaltone Co., Inc., a firm that