National Clothesline

Since retiring from NCA after 33 years in 2001 as chief garment analyst, I have received numerous requests from cleaners, museums and professional organizations asking me to continue analyzing garments.

These cleaners, along with professional organizations, had expressed their thanks to me for the many years of service and my repeated response to their requests of speaking to their customers.

I also received a call from America’s Best Cleaners asking me to be the garment analyst for the group’s members. This prompted me to set up laboratory facilities at the East Coast School of Drycleaning.

This analysis service is unique since there are no membership dues required and the service can be used by consumers, manufacturers and, most important, drycleaners.

I have dealt with and have had a good relationship with Tommy Hilfiger, Jones NY, Nautica, Liz Claiborne and many others.

The following problems are the most frequent I received. Many could have been avoided with proper testing and inspection.

This was the most frequent staining occurring on garments and the most hazardous to color dye and fabrics.

Chloride salts are found in perspiration, urine, many foods and beverages. Chloride salts not only discolor fabrics, but also can cause the fabric to deteriorate.

These problems can frequently be avoided by proper pre-spotting, especially on silk.

For example, if a silk is received, the underarm area should be steamed out even if staining is not noticed. Chloride salt staining is accelerated by drycleaning, age and oxidation.

Dye crocking occurs when the surface dye breaks away from the fabric. It is commonly associated with silks, cottons and linens.

Dye crocking can be noticed when received by looking at the cuffs or seams for dye loss. The best example of dye crocking can be seen on jeans and denims which show color loss on areas subject to friction.

Some common brand names associated with garments that dye crock are Tommy Bahama, Ashro, Gino Salvaggi, Travis Ayers and Fresh Produce. You can show a customer dye crocking by taking a clean cloth and rubbing an unexposed area. The cloth will pick up dye.

Solvent-soluble dyes are not limited to inexpensive garments. St. John Sport and Diane Von Furstenberg are some brand names of garments we received with dye problems.

Any garment with a dye or print that is suspect should be tested. It is easy to test by using a clean white cloth damp with volatile dry solvent. Rub an unexposed area and note dye transfer to cloth.

When a customer comes in contact with a bleach, acid or alkali, it is usually in a diluted state and discolorations are not noticeable.

After drying, the chemical becomes concentrated and the heat of cleaning or laundering accelerates the chemical action, making the damage more noticeable.

A chemical analysis will help explain the problem to a customer. The garment analyst should also be ready to talk with the customer on your behalf.

Any trimming is suspect for melting and color loss. To test for beading, put a drop of amyl acetate on your finger and touch the beading. Note for any sticky or tacky condition.

For color stability on sequins, dampen a q-tip with volatile dry solvent, touch the trimming and note any color transfer.

Garments fused together do not necessarily mean an inexpensive garment. Fused fabrics can occur with high end garments.

Improper fusing in manufacture can result in puckering and staining. When drycleaning fused fabrics, use limited moisture.

When finishing fabrics, do not steam for more than five seconds. Wet steam and heat are a common cause of fusing separation.

Our analysis service receives many problems that are caused by the cleaners. These include redeposition of soil and color loss from spotting.

Any dye loss occurring from spotting using anything but water is the cleaner’s liability.

In cases such as this, the cleaner should own up to the problem and reimbursement should be made to the customer. If a fair judgment cannot be reached, ask your garment analyst to help mediate the problem.

Many insurance companies are not paying out claims to customers suffering water or smoke damage if the claims are invalid. They have been sending me garments to verify if the customer’s claim of color loss, odor or shrinkage is true.

We subject the garments to confined chambers with application of heat. If no odor is detected in the chambers, the claim is not valid.

We also check for shrinkage by microscopic examination of the yarn and weave. If the yarn and weave are not distorted or if there is no evidence of puckering or sagging, the claim is invalid.

1. Explain to the customer about the problem.

2. Offer the customer the opportunity for the cleaner to send the garment for analysis or give the customer the name of the service you are using and let them send the garment.

If the customer is reluctant, have the garment analyst speak to the customer directly.

3. If after receiving the analysis results the customer is still dissatisfied, the garment analyst should then speak to the customer again. An analysis report will not serve you well if the customer is dissatisfied.

If you would like to discuss how garment analysis works for your benefit, contact me at (772) 340-0909 or e-mail me at cleandan@adelphia.net.