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Suede and leather wash procedure
The washing procedure for wetcleaning suedes, leathers and trimmed cloth items includes the following steps:
1. Testing for dye colorfastness.
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2. Prewashing to set or fix the dyes with Leather Fix prewash/dye fixer.
3. Washing to condition and remove soil and stains with Prosuede Wet detergent plus conditioner.
4. Prefinish rinsing (a) to condition and soften the skins and to enhance colors with Leather Soft Softener Conditioner and (b) to add body and firmness to the skins with leather size firming sizing.
Testing for colorfastness
Testing for dye colorfastness determines the serviceability of the leather dyes in the wetcleaning process.
Some suede or leather garments are colored with dyes that are sensitive to water. They could bleed if wetcleaned.
Be especially concerned about colorfastness when the garments contain multicolored panels or multicolored suede or leather trims on cloth, or care labels that specify, “dryclean only by professional leather cleaner” or if the garments contain bright vivid colors like red, black, maroon, yellow or blue. These garments are prime candidates for dye colorfastness testing.
Colorfastness testing should include testing with water mixed with the chemicals that will be used on the garment in the dilation in which they will be used.
For example, to test the effect of water on the leather dye in the skin, mix water under 100°F in temperature with the Prosuede Wet wetcleaning detergent/conditioner in the same proportion that will be used in the wash water.
Apply this water/detergent solution to an unexposed inconspicuous area of the suede or leather to be wetcleaned.
Allow about five minutes to see if the color is affected because the dyes are sensitive to the water/detergent mix. The test area can be blotted with a dryclean absorbent cloth or paper towel to see if the color bleeds onto it.
If the color bleeds, then the suede or leather should not be wetcleaned unless it is prewashed with Leather Fix prewash dye fixer to set the dye before wetcleaning with Prosuede Wet.
The effect of the prewash solution on the leather or suede can also be tested on a specific garment by following the same procedure described above and substituting dye fixer in place of the detergent plus conditioner.
This procedure will determine if the garment should or should not be wetcleaned. In most cases wetcleaning will be possible.
Prewashing to fix the dye
The purpose of the prewash cycle in the wetcleaning process for suede and leather is to set the dyes and to loosen surface soils.
This is accomplished by adding the dye fixer at four ounces per suede or leather garment to the wash water at the beginning of the prewash cycle.
Fill the tub to a low level with cool water at a temperature of 100°F or less. Load the washer with up to one half of its rated poundage capacity with dry suede or leather garments and prewash for three minutes to stabilize the color in items that might bleed in wetcleaning.
Washing to remove soils and stains
The purpose of the main wash cycle in wetcleaning process for suedes, leathers and trimmed cloth articles is to remove and suspend water soluble soils and stains in cold or warm water while further conditioning the skins to retain softness and suppleness and to stabilize colors to prevent color loss and bleeding.
This is accomplished by adding the detergent plus conditioner to the wash water cycle at two ounces per suede or leather garment or five ounces per ten pounds dry weight.
The main wash cycle procedure
The main wash cycle begins after the completion of the prewash cycle, in which the prewash dye fixer was used to set the dyes, stabilize the colors and loosen soils and stains.
At this point, the suede or leather items, which were loaded at one half the rated poundage capacity of the washer for the prewash cycle, are still in the wheel.
Begin the wash cycle by adding wash water at a temperature of less than 100°F. Never use hot water as it will damage the skins.
As the washer begins to fill, add the detergent plus conditioner to the wheel at two ounces (60cc) per suede or leather garment.
The normal water level is used for a full load (50 percent of machine’s rated poundage capacity) of suedes and leathers.
For less than a full load, the water level should be reduced proportionately by the same ratio.
Mechanical action is provided by the tumbling action of the wash wheel or by an agitator in the washing machine.
Wash cycle run time should be as follows:
1. For slick leathers, no more than five minutes wash time.
2. For suedes or naked leathers, the wash time should be at least five to ten minutes.
The length of the wash cycle has no effect on color loss because the dye fixer set the dye during the prewash cycle and the detergent plus conditioner stabilizes the color during the wash cycle.
The shorter wash time for slick leather is necessary to protect its painted surface from excessive mechanical action that could damage it while the surface soils and stains are being removed.
The longer wash time used for suede and naked leather is needed to remove water soluble soils and stains that have soaked into the skins.
Because there is no painted surface finish to protect, it is possible to use a longer wash cycle without damaging these garments.
The only exceptions would be for very soft and delicate lamb skin, doe skin and sheep skin items that could be pulled apart by excessive mechanical action in the washing machine.
For these delicate skins a shorter, more delicate wash cycle would be required in the same way it would be for delicate cloth items.
Rinsing for prefinish conditioning
The purpose for the rinse cycle in the Royaltone process for wetcleaning suede, leather and trimmed cloth garments is to provide prefinish conditioning to the skins to accomplish one of the following objectives: 1) to impart added softness with Leather Soft leather softener/conditioner; 2) to increase firmness with Leather Size leather sizing conditioner.
Rinsing to soften and condition
The rinse cycle in the Royaltone wetcleaning process for suede and leather is used to condition and soften the skins prior to drying and finishing. This is accomplished by adding Leather Soft leather softener/conditioner to the rinse water at four ounces per suede or leather garment. Use cool water at a low level with a temperature of 100°F or less. The washer should remain loaded with no more than one half of its rated poundage capacity with dry weight suede, leather or trimmed cloth garments. Rinse for three to five minutes to soften and condition the garments.
Rinsing to increase firmness
The rinse cycle in the Royaltone wetcleaning process for suede and leather can also be used to add body and firmness to limp skins prior to drying and finishing. This is achieved by adding leather sizing conditioner to the rinse water at one to two ounces per suede or leather garment. Use cool water at a temperature of 100°F or less and at a low level. The washer should remain loaded with no more than one half its rated poundage capacity with dry weight suedes, leathers or trimmed cloth garments. Rinse for three to five minutes to firm up the garments.


FEBRUARY 2006
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Frank Lucenta is president of Royaltone Co., Inc., a firm that