National Clothesline

As a garment analyst and spotting instructor, I witnessed first-hand spotters’ incorrect knowledge and usage of chemicals.

I am not only talking about spotters with limited experience but also those people who have 20 years or more experience.

Chemical companies do not necessarily formulate their chemicals alike. These chemicals differ in formulation and strength from company to company.

Even bleaches such as sodium perborate and titanium sulphate can have varying strengths depending upon the company that is producing it.

In wetcleaning, some companies recommend leaving their pre-spotters on for a long period of time while other companies do not recommend this.

A misconception that cleaners have is removal of chemicals from the fabric. Many spotters have a tendency to apply a chemical and then re-clean the garment. They feel that the cleaning solvent will remove the chemical.

Cleaning solvents do not remove any wetside chemicals. Acids, alkali and bleach remain in the fabric no matter how many times the fabric is drycleaned.

Wedding gowns and garments in storage will often show oxidation and staining if the pre-spotter is not removed from the fabric.

The discolorations may not be noticeable, but heat, age and oxidation will reveal rings and unsightly discolorations.

Rust remover. The rust remover containing hydrofluoric acid is a very important chemical for stain removal. It is the most effective agent for removal of rust, metallic oxidation, some tannin stains and removal of discolorations due to titanium stripper.

This does not easily rinse from a fabric. When applied to a fabric, tests that I have performed reveal that it does not rinse out when flushing with the steam gun.

Even immersing in water will not remove it from the fabric. It can, however, be neutralized and removed easily by rinsing using an alkaline based detergent or protein formula.

Rust remover can be used on most fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, rayon and acetate. It should be tested for dye safety, but in most cases it is relatively safe. Discolorations will occur on metallic fabrics, glass trimming and camel hair.

Safe rust remover. There are several chemical manufacturers that are using oxalic acid in their formulations for the safe removal of rust. In my spotting procedure, I like oxalic acid for removal of tannin stains. I do not feel, however, that oxalic acid can replace hydrofluoric acid.

Paint remover. The formulations of paint remover can differ from company to company. Usually the darker the color of the paint remover, the stronger it is.

Strong paint removers can increase the stain removal but can also be more hazardous on dyes and prints.

When paint removers are flushed with steam, alcohol is activated, which causes the chemical to become more hazardous on the color of many fabrics.

It should also be noted that paint removers will not rinse out of the fabric in the wetcleaning process. When allowed to sit on a fabric for a long period of time, discolorations can occur due to oxidation of the dye on the fabric.

Acetic acid. Even if you use prepared tannin formulas, acetic acid has its use. Many people using it are using it in an incorrect strength. When acetic acid is purchased it comes in strengths of 28, 56 or 99 percent. It must be used in the 28 percent, and then diluted some more. The reason for the dilution is to avoid the acetic acid odor.

This is a very important and effective chemical for removal of wine, berry, and tannin stains.

Protein formulas. Protein formulas are alkaline based lubricants that are effective but not necessarily safe to the dyes on fabrics. Many dyes on silks and wools are sensitive to alkalis. Even those protein formulas that are labeled “non-ammoniated” are not safe.

Ammonia. Ammonia can be used as a strong protein formula. To reduce the ammonia odor, dilute with 50 percent water and add a little detergent to the ammonia bottle.

Ammonia has less safety to dyes on fabrics than protein formulas, but can be more effective for removal of protein and dye stains.

Amyl acetate. Many plants that I have visited do not use amyl acetate. Some cleaners that I speak to feel it is not safe to use on rayon and acetate.

Amyl acetate is safe to fabrics but may affect some surface prints and plastic trimming. Amyl acetate is the most effective agent used for removal of plastic based stains, tree sap, grass and sizing disturbances.

Liquid enzymes. Liquid enzymes are effective for the removal of most protein and albuminous stains. They are not safe to many vivid colors on silks and wools.

Powdered enzymes. Laidlaw Chemical makes a powdered enzyme that when used properly is the safest method for removal of protein staining.

Some cleaners put it directly on a fabric and heat it with a steam gun. This is incorrect since temperatures over 120°F destroy the enzyme.

When used with other chemicals, the enzymes are also destroyed.

Some cleaners who put it on a fabric may roll the fabric up to keep the enzyme warm and moist. This is dangerous since it can cause dye transfer.

The proper way is to put one-half teaspoon of enzyme in a six-ounce bottle with warm water and a little glycerin.

Apply it to the fabric and wait a half hour before flushing. Do not worry that the enzyme cools down.