National Clothesline

Many cleaners and spotters run into spotting problems because they do not understand chemical reactions and what to do.

Chemical reactions can not only affect the fabric and dye but also staining as well. When a chemical reaction occurs there are proper steps to take.

Spotters should also realize that the heat of the steam gun can accelerate the chemical reaction. Every 18 degrees rise in temperature doubles the chemical action. This means that the heat of the steam gun can accelerate a chemical to a point that a permanent chemical damage and setting of a stain can occur. It is therefore important to not only use the proper steps but heat should also be used cautiously.

Salt residue. Acids and alkali neutralize each other, producing water and salt. The salt residue produces a white staining that may not flush out easily.

Correction. Use any mild detergent for breaking up the salt residue and flush through using a water gun and steam.

Alkaline color change. Alkali can cause a color change on many fabrics especially wool and silk.

Correction. The chemical producing the color change should be thoroughly flushed. It should then be neutralized with a mild acid, such as acetic or tannin formula.

Acid color change. Many fabrics are sensitive to acids, especially cotton, rayon and linen.

Correction. Flush area thoroughly and apply a mild alkali such as ammonia or protein formula.

Mustard. There are ingredients in mustard that react to alkali, such as ammonia. The staining can turn purple. This is an indication that a wrong chemical is being used and the stain is oxidizing.

Solution. Flush area and work stain out using acids and tannin formula. The last step would involve using oxidizing bleaches such as hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite.

Red cabbage. In the presence of an alkali, you will find that the staining turns pink or red and in the presence of an acid it will turn green. Red cabbage and similar stains react similar to litmus paper. When the staining is turning red it is indicating that the stain is being set.

Solution. Flush area thoroughly and work stains with acids. Oxidizing bleaches will probably be necessary to remove last traces.

Iodine. You may find an iodine stain turning blue-black when contacting a fabric. This is an indication that there is starch in the fabric.

Solution. The best and safest way to reduce and remove iodine staining is using sodium thiosulphate.

Albuminous and protein staining. In the presence of alcohol it will permanently set and oxidize this type of staining. This can occur when oily type paint remover is used on the staining and steam is applied. This causes the alcohol in the oily type paint remover to be activated.

Also, general formula should never be used on this type of staining.

Sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate. These bleaches may cause a color change due to the fact that they are alkaline in nature.

Solution. They should be rinsed and neutralized with an acid.

Sodium hypochlorite. When this bleach contacts a white wool or silk, a yellow discoloration will occur.

Solution. The bleach should be thoroughly rinsed from the fabric and neutralized using a reducing bleach such as sodium hydrosulphite or sodium bisulphate.

Flush the area thoroughly before applying the reducing bleach.

Potassium permanganate. This bleach is found in some ink removers. It usually leaves a brown discoloration that cannot be flushed out.

Solution. The best way to reduce the discoloration is using hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid.

Sodium hydrosulphite. This can leave a streaking on some fabrics.

Solution. Hydrogen peroxide plus ammonia.

Titanium sulphate. This is a very complex bleach and different discolorations can occur.

This bleach also reacts with other chemicals producing a number of reactions. It is sensitive enough to pick up the presence of a chemical even after it has been flushed from the fabric.

Titanium plus peroxide causes a yellow area. Titanium plus ammonia causes a black area.

Solution. This discoloration can be removed using rust remover. The rust remover used must contain hydrofluoric acid.

Sometimes the titanium stripper may cause a color change due to its acid nature. In this case, the area must be flushed thoroughly and ammonia must be used to neutralize it. Titanium on some wools may leave a gray residue. In that case hydrogen peroxide should be used.

Trial and error will often determine the best solution to the problem.