National Clothesline

The drycleaner should be technically aware of potential problems occurring with fabrics, stains and drycleaning. Simple tests and proper observation can save the drycleaner money, time and aggravation. The technically astute drycleaner can also discuss problems with customers intelligently.

Many drycleaners use my analysis service and other services for explanation of fabric problems. It is important that the drycleaner discuss the problem intelligently with the customer before sending the garment for analysis.

Everyone in the drycleaning store should be aware of proper testing and look for potential problems. For example, anyone passing the drycleaning machine should look at the pressure gauge for high pressure and observe the solvent clarity in the sight glass.

Tests

Crocking. A simple test for dye crocking is simply rubbing an unexposed area of the garment with a dry cloth. Note color loss and transfer to cloth.

Water soluble dyes. Flush an unexposed area with the steam gun into a cloth. Note dye transfer to cloth.

Solvent-soluble dyes. Rub an unexposed area of the garment with a cloth damp with volatile dry solvent. Note dry transfer.

Trimming solubility. Put a drop of amyl acetate on your fingertips. Touch beading and note if it becomes sticky or tacky.

Color solubility of trimming. Dampen a Q-tip with volatile dry solvent. Rub sequin or other trimming and note dry transfer.

Ultraviolet light

Cleaners who own my Spectralight or a black light can examine garments for potential problems. Ultraviolet light will pick up stain characteristics and fabric problems.

Many stains under ultraviolet light, such as protein and chloride salts, will glow. Oxidized tannin stains will become darker. Potential beading problems will glow under UV light.

Flashlight

Many staining and fabric characteristics can be observed by shining a flashlight on the back of the fabric. Tannin stains will reveal dark areas and oil stains are translucent. Weak areas will also become apparent when light is observed on the back of a fabric.

Chemical evaluation

There are easy tests to determine whether a fabric has been attacked by strong chemicals. You can obtain litmus paper from chemical suppliers. Wet the affected area with water and touch the damaged area with the litmus paper. An acid damage will turn the paper red while a strong alkali damage will turn the paper green.

If you obtain some chemicals from a pool supplier, you can determine if the garment is damaged by chlorine bleach. For example the pool supplier has a chemical that will turn pink if chlorine bleach has contacted the fabric.

Drycleaning tests

Redeposition. A simple test is to cut a white fabric in half and attach half to a garment to be cleaned. Compare the cleaned fabric with the uncleaned fabric for the loss of brightness.

Water in solvent. Put a sample of the solvent in a glass or test tube. Add some potassium permanganate crystals and note if the crystals dissolve.

High pressure. If you note high pressure, it is a sign that redeposition is likely to occur.

Wrinkles in lining. This denotes water in the solvent or hot solvent.

Sight glass. Milky solvent means water is present. Dark or off-colored solvent means dye is present.

Potential problems to discuss with customers

Pigment print is fashionable. Pigment prints can be observed by noting lack of dye penetration to the back of the fabric. Pigment prints are likely to lose some dye in drycleaning and customers should be forewarned.

Glued-on sequins. Loss of the sequin trimmings is likely to occur even with the most careful handling.

Permanent pleats. The manufacturers idea of permanent pleating is different than the customer’s. The manufacturer deems the pleats are permanent if they still retain the outline of the pleats. The customer desires pleating to be sharp and definite as they were prior to cleaning.

Suede and leather. Expensive suede and leather garments are always potential problems. Suede and leather cleaning require that the garment be cleaned and returned to the customer as near to new as possible. A customer, however, wants an expensive suede or leather garment returned in a new and original condition.

Note: Plan to visit with me at the Pennsylvania Delaware Cleaners Association’s Dry-cleaning & Laundry Expo trade show September 16-17 in Atlantic City, NJ. I will be at the Cleaners Chemical Corp. booth #612. Bring your analysis questions, and suggestions of topics you would like to see in my articles. I will demonstrate the Spectralight and will have my manuals available to browse.