National
Clothesline
The proper use of rust removers
Manufacturers are now producing two
different types of rust removers. The original rust remover was
comprised of a diluted hydrofluoric acid. The new rust remover
that is produced now is a compound of oxalic acid.
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Rust remover is not just for rust or iron
oxide. It is effective on some tannin stains, dyes, inks and
other oxidized stains.
Some stains may not be readily apparent
as being rust. For example a customer can get a dark metallic
stain on the front of a garment from a locket or pendant. Rust
remover is effective for this type of staining.
It is important to know the
characteristics of both rust removers for effective use. I have
guided Cleaners Chemical in their oxalic acid formulation so
that the rust remover can be utilized for tannin stains as
well. It must be kept in mind that rust remover, as well as
other chemicals, is accelerated by heat.
The following is a list of the companies
that produce rust remover and the composition of their
products.
Cleaners Chemical Corp. Rust Eradicator,
oxalic acid.
Adco Rust and stain remover, hydrofluoric
acid.
Kreussler Safe Deprit Professional
Yellow, oxalic acid.
A.L. Wilson Fluoride Free Rustgo, oxalic
acid.
A.L. Wilson Rustgo, hydrofluoric acid.
Laidlaw Rustaid, oxalic acid.
Rust remover (hydrofluoric acid)
This is the most effective chemical for
removal of rust, metallic oxidation, some tannin stains and
inks. It is also the most effective chemical when used with
titanium sulphate.
Most cleaners are aware that testing
before use is important since it can affect some dyes and is
extremely hazardous on metallic fabrics, trimming and glass.
It should not contact the surface of the
spotting board as it can mar the surface. This is the strongest
acid on the spotting board and the safety of its use should be
noted.
Hydrofluoric acid can cause severe
chemical burns when handled incorrectly. Hydrofluoric acid
should never be rubbed with your finger. If it contacts your
skin, it should be thoroughly washed with soap and water.
Some rust removers may come with a
neutralizer. The neutralizer is a strong alkali that
neutralizes the last remaining traces of rust remover that may
be left in the fabric. It is important to remove the rust
remover from a fabric since rust remover can cause chemical
burns to the wearer of the garment.
One of the problems with the neutralizer
is that its strong alkalinity may produce a discoloration of
its own. Ammonia can also neutralize rust remover, but may not
be safe on some colors and fabrics.
I have conducted the following tests of
rust remover.
Rust remover was applied to a fabric.
The area was flushed with a steam gun.
Result: The
rust remover remained in the fabric.
The area was again thoroughly flushed
with the steam gun.
Result: The rust remover remained in the
fabric.
Neutral lubricant was used and the rust
remover was flushed.
Result: A
slight trace of rust remover remained.
A protein formula was used after rust
remover was flushed.
Result: The
rust remover was neutralized and removed from the fabric.
In conclusion, we can note that flushing
with a steam gun does not remove rust remover.
Using neutralizer or ammonia will
neutralize rust remover but can be hazardous to some colors and
should be tested.
Common protein formulas were effective
and should be considered as an alternative.
Rust remover (oxalic acid)
This rust remover is claimed by some
manufacturers as being safe. It is safer than using
hydrofluoric acid and safer to handle, but it is not entirely
safe to dyes on fabrics. It must be tested before use on
colored fabrics.
I have been teaching the use of oxalic
acid for tannin stains for 35 years. Oxalic acid is the second
acid used for tannin stains after using acetic acid or prepared
tannin formula. It will remove many stains that prepared tannin
formula and acetic acid will not. It also has a mild reducing
action that is useful for many dyes. It is also effective for
wine and berry stains. It is not effective when used with
titanium sulphate.
Tannin stain removal
1. Flush.
2. Neutral lubricant.
3. Mechanical action.
4. Flush.
5. Tannin formula or acetic acid and
neutral lubricant.
6. Mechanical action.
7. Flush.
8. Oxalic acid (test).
9. Heat.
10. Flush.
11. Hydrofluoric acid (test).
12. Flush.
13. Peroxide plus ammonia (test).
14. Heat.
15. Flush.
16. Mild Acid.
17. Flush.
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