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Means of pressing suede and leather
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As we have seen, almost all of the
techniques you use in drycleaning and wetcleaning are used in
leather and suede cleaning. The same is true when pressing
suede and leather.
For purposes of this discussion, pressing
includes:
Pressing on a press.
Ironing with a hand iron.
Forming on a form finisher.
The cardinal rule to remember when press
finishing suede and leather garments is to never allow high
pressure live steam to come in contact with the skin when the
head of the press is closed.
The reason for this rule is that two
things are bad for leather: Wetting the skin; and then applying
heat to the skin.
Rules to remember
The result of doing these two things is
that the skin will almost always draw up and shrink unevenly.
So the first rule is: “High pressure live steam must
never be used when pressing suede and leather on a
press”.
The same is true when ironing suede and
leather with a hand iron: no steam!
The only exception is for suedes and
naked skin leathers and then only if pressed with “wet
steam” where the steam that comes in contact with the
skin is set at a pressure of 40 psi or lower.
Now when using a form finisher, you can
safely use SOME steam to blow out a suede or leather. However,
care should be exercised to not get too much steam on soft
suedes or painted leather coats. Never steam a fur on the form
finisher. By taking these precautions, you will be able to
press most suedes and leathers without problems.
As I have explained, pressing suede and
leather garments is almost exactly like pressing cloth
garments. All the same lays and techniques apply, except you do
not let normal live steam contact the suede or leather skin on
a press and you brush up the nap of suedes with a suede mitt on
the form finisher and a suede brush when the head of the press
comes up.
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