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Using a sleeve pad to avoid creases
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When pressing suede and leather you do not want to press creases into the
sleeves. Customers do not normally ever want creases pressed into the sleeves
of their suede or leather garments any more than they want creases in their
laundered shirts.
A sleeve press pad, in a one size fits all, can do a satisfactory job on most
leather sleeves. Sleeve pads that come in two or more sizes can be handy as
they can more closely match the size variations of the sleeves of different
garments.
For example, a large or “macho” size sleeve pad would more easily fill the sleeves cut larger by the garment
manufacturer to accommodate the larger more muscular arms of men.
On the other hand, a small “petite” size would more closely fit the smaller narrower sleeves of garments made by
garment manufacturers for the slender arms of women.
To use the sleeve press pad, simply slip the pad into the sleeve to be pressed.
The narrow end of the pad goes in first. Slide the pad into the sleeve in the
same way your arm would go into the sleeve
— that is, from the shoulder to the cuff. Insert the pad into the sleeve until
the larger end reaches the seam of the shoulder pad. This will allow you to
press the sleeve right up to the shoulder seam.
Once the sleeve press pad is properly in place inside the suede or leather
sleeve, you are ready to press.
Caution: Do no use live steam when you press suede or leather unless the steam
pressure has been reduced to no more than 40 psi (3.5 kg/cm2).
For best results, use a hot head press with the steam pressure set at no more
than 50 psi (2.8 kg/cm2) or use a press equipped with a hot head (non
perforated) grid plate.
Start by pressing the underside of the sleeve.
First, place the sleeve with the pad in it up on the buck of the press. Position
it so that the head of the press will press the sleeve from the armpit to the
cuff. Be sure the cuff line is set where you want it to be before lowering the
head of the press.
Then bring down the head of the press and press the underside of the sleeve from
the armpit to the cuff. If the garment is a suede, brush up the suede nap after
the head of the press comes up.
Next, turn the sleeve over so you can press the outside of the sleeve. Pull the
sleeve up on the buck of the press so that the head of the press will press the
entire length of the outside of the sleeve from the shoulder seam to the cuff.
Again, be sure the cuff line is set where you want it to be before lowering the
head of the press. Then bring down the head of the press and press the outside
of the sleeve. If the garment is a suede, brush up the suede nap after the head
of the press comes up.
This pressing procedure consists of two lays and will result in smooth,
wrinkle-free sleeves that will satisfy most customers.
However, if you wish to provide the optimum in pressing quality on sleeves, you
will want to press the sleeves using four lays.
In this case, after you have completed the first two lays as described above,
you will roll the sleeve around on the sleeve press pad so that the areas of
the sleeve that were at the edge of the pad are now up on the flat part of the
pad.
Then press the sleeve on one side to press the area that was along one edge of
the press pad on the first lay.
Then press the other side of the sleeve to press the other area that was along
the other edge of the press pad on the second lay.
Now every part of the sleeve has been in contact with the head of the press in
four lays and the finish on the sleeve is superb.
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