After pressing, brush up those suedes
When you press suede, the pressure and heat of the head of the press will
flatten down the suede nap at the same time the wrinkles are pressed out.
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This procedure should not be strange to anyone who has ever pressed velvet or
velour or corduroy. In the case of these items, the fabric is brushed up to
restore the fluffiness.
The same idea applies to suede nap. You brush to raise the nap.
The most efficient tool for brushing up suede nap is the block brush.
Block brushes for brushing suede nap
There are two useful versions of the block brush. One is the nylon bristle brush
that is used on delicate suedes and the other one is the wire bristle brush
that is used on heavy-duty suedes.
Because the block brush is wide, it reduces the number of brush strokes required
to brush up suede nap.
Nylon bristle block brush
The nylon bristle block brush consists of a wood block base with several rows of
soft nylon bristles.
This brush is used to raise up the nap on the softer, more delicate suedes such
as sheepskin, lambskin, deerskin and calfskin suedes without damaging them and
with fewer brush strokes than would be possible with smaller brushes.
The wire bristle block brush
The wire bristle block brush consists of the same size wood block but instead of
several rows of nylon bristles, it has several rows of wire bristles.
This brush is used to raise up the nap on the coarser and more heavy duty suedes
like cowhide, pigskin and moosehide with fewer brush strokes than would be
possible with the nylon bristle block brush or with smaller brushes.
Since these heavy duty suedes are able to take the mechanical action of the wire
brush, it becomes a labor saving tool that quickly pays for itself.
The wire bristle brush reduces the number of brush strokes because it creates
stronger mechanical action where the brush contacts the nap of cowhide and
pigskin suedes which require greater mechanical action to raise their nap.
Fortunately these skins are very durable and can withstand more mechanical
action without sustaining damage. Because of the higher mechanical action of
the wire bristle brush, fewer strokes of the brush are required to raise up the
nap. The investment in this brush saves more than its cost in the time and
effort required to brush up the nap.
The job could be done with the nylon bristle block brush, but it would take more
brush strokes and more time. It would also wear out the nylon brush quickly and
would not do as good a job on the heavier, coarser cowhide and pigskin suedes.
Please note that the wire bristle block brush should not be used on delicate
lambskin, deerskin and sheepskin suedes as it could easily damage them.
Brushing suede with block brush
Brushing should be done after each lay of the press. When pressing suedes and
leathers, use the same lays as you would use when pressing a similar cloth
garment, except you do not press suedes with live steam unless the steam
pressure is reduced to 40 psi (2.8 kg/cm2) or lower.
