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Using potassium permanganate
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Potassium permanganate is one of the most important bleaches for correcting
staining when other bleaches do not work.
Many cleaners stay away from this bleach because they do not understand the
chemicals necessary to neutralize it or how to use it. I have been using this
bleach for many years and it has been invaluable for correcting many problems.
I have used it for removing mildew on wool and silk because chlorine bleach
could not be used. It can also be used as a last resort for dye, tannin and
many inks.
Potassium permanganate is termed oxidizing bleach because it adds oxygen to a
fabric or stain. It is alkaline by nature but does not have the damaging
effects that chlorine bleach has on fibers.
Potassium permanganate can be obtained from your supply houses in crystal form.
A.L. Wilson Chemical sells the product called PermaGo, which is potassium
permanganate in a liquid form that is ready to use.
I have seen potassium permanganate sold as a purifier for pools in a
supermarket. These products are also found in liquid form.
Concentration
When potassium permanganate starts to go bad, it looses some of its deep purple
color and will turn brown.
Potassium permanganate can be applied to a stain with a Q-tip and it can also be
used as bath bleach.
Acceleration
Neutralizing
When potassium permanganate contacts a fabric, it chemically changes to a brown
color. This occurs because the bleach loses some of its ions. When an alkali
contacts potassium permanganate it may also turn brown or green due to loss of
manganese ions.
Proper neutralizing means changing or losing more of the ions, causing it to
turn colorless. This can be done with acids or reducing bleaches.
Neutralizing potassium permanganate can be done with oxalic acid, sodium
bisulphate or sodium hydrosulphite. Some of these will work better than others.
The best neutralizer for potassium permanganate is hydrogen peroxide plus acetic
acid.
Testing
Potassium permanganate can be used on all fabrics, but color must be tested.
Since white fabrics also contain fluorescent dyes, they, too, must be tested.
Spotting board
Use a Q-tip and apply to last traces of staining. Heat with the steam gun and
then flush the area. Apply hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid as a neutralizer
and flush the area.
Bath bleach
Use warm water in a plastic bucket or pail. Do not use metal, iron or steel
since this will accelerate and break down the bleach.
Add two ounces of potassium permanganate per gallon of water. Soak for ten
minutes and then rinse garment thoroughly in clear water.
Make up a bath of a neutralizing agent such as a reducing bleach, oxalic acid or
peroxide and acetic.
New product testing
In my professional career as a garment analyst, I have been involved in the
testing and development of new solvents, spotting and wetcleaning chemicals. In
the development of wetcleaning, I tested the effectiveness of most wetcleaning
chemicals. I have also tested the effectiveness of Pure Dry solvent and the
results were published in the National Clothesline.
The testing of chemicals involves the effectiveness of the chemical to the
following:
1. All types of staining.
2. Comparison of the chemical to other methods.
3. Safety of the chemical to all fabrics including wool and silk.
4. Ease that the chemical can be flushed and feathered.
5. Other uses for the chemical.
All testing is done in a live plant setting using prepared and live garments. A
report on the effectiveness of the chemical will be issued to the company and a
description of the testing results will be reported in my column.
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