National Clothesline

There is no way for any cleaner to totally avoid having disputes with customers about garments and staining.

It is not enough to just send the problem garment in for analysis and then hand the customer a written scientific analysis. The cleaner should personalize the problem and explain the problem to the customer in simple layperson terms.

It is also important that the cleaner offer to the customer a solution to the problem. There are some situations when the customer is totally unreasonable and you might need a second party to speak to the customer.

The second party might be the garment analyst from the analysis service that you use. I have done this for my clients and I am sure that others do it also.

For example, I recently had to speak to a manufacturer concerning football uniforms that bled when contacting water. I was able to point out that the only colors on the uniform that bled were the lettering and not the other colors on the uniforms.

The manufacturer understood the problem and even admitted that he sets his dyes but sends out the lettering to be done by a private contractor.

Another customer that I spoke to was irate over a silk blouse discolored by perspiration. The cleaner admonished the customer because of her perspiration causing the problem.

When I spoke to the customer I told her it was not only her perspiration that caused the problem but it was the weakness of the dye on the silk. I explained that many fabrics that she might wear can contact perspiration but not adversely affect the garment.

Unfortunately, however, silk fabrics and the dyes used on them are affected by all types of chloride salts. Chloride salts are also found in deodorants, many foods and beverages.

I suggested to the customer that she should possibly attach underarm pads to her silk garments.

I also advised her that after each wearing that she bring the garment in to be cleaned to avoid damage from the chloride salts.

I have found that most cleaners understand the problem with fabrics but have not found the proper explanation to offer the customer. I handle hundreds of garments and the cleaner often sends a note saying: “I know what the problem is, but I need a written report.”

Again, the written report is OK but a proper explanation to the customer is even better. The following is a list of some common problems and ways to explain the problem to the customer.

There are many stains when contacting a fabric that are not visible. This includes substances such as soft drinks, fruits, vegetables and liquor.

These stains on contact with a fabric are colorless. Exposure to air causes the stain to pick up oxygen and oxidize into a brown visible stain. If I cut an apple in half, the exposed apple will turn brown from oxidization. Once the stain on a fabric totally oxidizes, removal is difficult and sometimes impossible.

The reason cleaners do not use more aggressive chemicals for stain removal is that if a discoloration occurs the garment is ruined and the cleaner is liable. It is also a good idea to point out why the stain may not have shown up prior to cleaning. The heat of drycleaning and pressing brings out the stain which was originally invisible.

This is a discoloration caused by airborne gases in the atmosphere. We are all familiar with air pollution and the emissions from cars, factories and heating. Not only is this hazardous to health but the impurities react with some dyes on fabrics.

While garments are hanging in the closet the gases in the air oxidize the dye on fabrics causing many dyes to turn red or purple. The condition may not be readily noticeable before cleaning but the heat of cleaning accelerates the oxidation. Manufacturers can reduce the problem of fume fading by using more stable dyes.

The fabrics most likely to fume fade are silk, acetate and rayon. Dyes used on other fabrics are usually more resistant to fume fading. Fume fading is a problem with the fabric and dye and the garment should be returned to the store of purchase.

A fabric should contain a dye that will withstand friction and abrasion in normal wear, routine drycleaning and wetcleaning procedures.

Poor dye fastness can be observed on some denims that lose color on cuff and pocket areas. This type of dye loss is called dye crocking. This type of dye loss does not occur on wools and other fabrics due to better dyeing used in manufacture.

Other examples of poor dyes are dyes that dissolve in drycleaning. The garment may lose all the dye or only some of the dye, yet other garments cleaned in the same drycleaning load do not lose color.

Dye loss in drycleaning is not a normal condition and garments with poor dyes should be brought back to the store of purchase.

Beading sequins and other trimmings are an integral part of the garment.

If the garment can be cleaned but the trimming can not, the entire garment is deemed unserviceable.

Some types of unserviceable trimming are plastic beading that dissolves in drycleaning. The manufacturer does not have to use this and other unserviceable trimming that melts and dissolves when drycleaned.

The manufacturer can use mica, glass and other types of plastic that are resistant to drycleaning solvents.

An example of serviceable plastic would be the plastic buttons on your jacket, coat, shirt or blouse.

Any garment with a trimming that can not withstand routine drycleaning should be brought to store of purchase for a refund.

For a garment to resist shrinkage in wear, drycleaning or wetcleaning, it must be pre-shrunk by the manufacturer. Manufacturers pre-shrink fabrics by a heat-setting process.

I am sure that you are aware of garments that can easily shrink.

As a matter of fact, a popular fashion trend among some young people is washing a pair of jeans and then putting on the garment wet so it can shrink to form fit.

It is understandable that shrinkage on other garments is not acceptable. A customer buys a garment with a certain fit and the garment will be not be wearable if shrinkage occurs.

The only acceptable shrinkage is up to 2 percent on a garment. This amount is not acceptable on draperies since a 100-inch drapery will shrink two inches.

When it is obvious from the look of the garment that it was not mishandled, but shrinkage occurred because of lack of pre-shrinkage, the garment should be returned to the store of purchase.