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The art and science of spot cleaning
There are times when you are faced with cleaning garments that can not be drycleaned or wetcleaned.
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These might be suede or leather trimmed garments or garments with unserviceable trimming. Some garments needing spot cleaning may carry a label that says “Spot Clean Only.”
Spot cleaning is not shortchanging a customer because you are making a soiled or unusable garment into a garment that can be worn. I have shown many cleaners while doing consultations how to do spot cleaning.
One example was a black silk suit with leather trimming and unserviceable beading. The soiled areas were spotted and perspiration stains were removed.
The leather trimming was then refinished with a dye pad to restore color. We then put the garment in the dryer with an odor-removing spray.
This customer was happy upon receiving the garment.
I did the same treatment for a white wool coat with black leather trimming. This garment could not be wetcleaned or drycleaned. This garment was also acceptable for wear.
Although dark garments can be spot cleaned with relative ease, light-colored garments can also be spot cleaned with some more expertise.
Feathering light-colored garments
The art of feathering requires removing rings both wetside and dryside. If the feathering is not properly done, the garment will not be acceptable to the customer.
Wetside rings. To remove wetside rings, keep the wet area localized by spotting over a towel.
The feathering process requires a little time and patience. You use the steam gun held a distance away from the fabric to break up the outer wetside ring. Holding the steam gun too close makes the area too wet.
Then use a dry towel to wipe from the center of the ring outward so the wet area blends with the dry area. Work the ring in sections doing a small portion of the ring first and then proceeding to other parts of the ring.
This method is more effective than using the air gun and vacuum to quickly dry the area. You can also use the water gun to spray the wet area and feather by the same method.
Knitted fabrics are easier to feather than woven fabrics. On knitted fabrics, you may need only to spray the wet area with a water gun and then tamp with a spotting brush.
Rings and areas with loss of luster on rayons require a fogging method. This frequently occurs due to sizing breakdown.
In this case, hold the steam gun away from the affected area so only the steam contacts the fabric. Then use the air gun and vacuum to dry the fabric quickly.
Dryside feathering
If dryside agents are used, feather using the same procedure using volatile dry solvent. Dampen a towel with volatile dry solvent and wipe the ring from the center outward so the ring is broken up and blends into the fabric.
It is interesting to note that cloth shoes spot cleaned using volatile dry solvent has produced satisfactory results.
Stain removal
Make sure the spotting board is clean, including the inside of the vacuum to avoid impurity backup.
Lay the garment on a clean towel to limit spreading of the wet area. Apply chemicals and lubricants sparingly to avoid excessive ringing. Use a Q-tip to apply chemical; apply enough chemical to cover the stain.
Before applying steam to the fabric, expel the steam on the floor to clean the spotting gun of excessive moisture and impurities.
Wetside chemicals to use for spot cleaning
Neutral lubricant. Dilute in a six ounce spotting bottle a few drops of lubricant.
Acetic acid. Dilute the 28% acetic down to less than 14%.
Ammonia. Dilute the ammonia down to less than 10%.
Powered enzymes (RSR). Use one-half teaspoon in a six-ounce bottle of warm water. Do not use the enzyme powder directly on the fabric since removing the powder is time consuming.
Non-ionic citrus-based spotting agents
These agents work effectively for removing dryside staining, yet can be flushed easily.
There are some products that may be difficult to feather. Before using, test on an unexposed area.
Dryside agents
If oily type paint removers are used, they should be the kind that can be flushed both wet and dryside. The darker the oily type paint remover, the more difficult it is to flush on the wetside.
Darker colored oily type paint removers are also dangerous to flush wetside since they release alcohol, which can discolor fabrics.
Lighter-colored paint removers are usually safer and can be flushed both wet and dryside.
Soil on collar
The collar area can be spotted with wetside lubricants, making sure that the wet area blends into the seam areas. Any residual wet areas past the seams can be feathered.
Odor
Cleaners Chemical Corp. makes products that can be used in any dryer. Aeroclenz I is used for smoke and petroleum odor; Aeroclenz II used for perspiration and body odor.
Garments can be put into any dryer and tumbled warm for a few minutes.
Spray in the product and avoid direct contact with the clothes. Tumble a few more minutes and the odor should be eliminated.
Dan Eisen is the former chief garment analyst for the Neighborh
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