National Clothesline

When DuPont originally introduced its microfiber called micromattique, I did extensive testing to determine its serviceability for cleaning and spotting.

Microfiber is an important development in fiber technology. Filament fiber emerged from a spinneret less than 1 denier per filament. This means both synthetic and man-made fibers can be made thinner than the actual silk fiber.

Microfibers are used to imitate silk and can be woven in any weave, including taffeta, satin and velvet fabrics. It is also used in knitted fabrics.

It is used for suits, jackets, blouses and high fashion evening and wedding gowns. The most popular microfiber is polyester, but other synthetic and man-made fibers such as acrylic, nylon and rayon are used. It can also be blended with other fibers.

The following companies produce microfiber:

• Microfine Rayon is a registered trademark of Courtalds Fibers, Inc.

• Micromattique DuPont is a trademark for its micro denier polyester fiber.

• Micronesse is a registered trademark of Hoechst Celanese for Treviera polyester.

• Microspun is a registered trademark of Fiber Industries for polyester.

• Microsupplex is a registered trademark of DuPont for nylon.

Fabric problems

The biggest problem with microfibers is the improper labeling. Since microfibers are used in high-fashion fabrics, they are frequently mislabeled.

The labeling may state “Do not dryclean, Do not wash. Spot clean only.” The label may also restrict the use of solvents and use the label “Petroleum solvent only.”

The high-fashion designers frequently use unserviceable plastic trimmings on garments with microfibers and use a “Dryclean only” label. The fact is that all microfiber fabrics can be drycleaned using any solvent provided the trimming is serviceable. All microfibers made of polyester, nylon and acrylic can be wetcleaned.

Rather than following the labeling the drycleaner should follow the fiber content.

The fiber content of a fabric can be determined by the burn test. Snip a piece of fabric from an unexposed seam. Burn the sample and extinguish the flame. Plastic-based fabrics like polyester melt and form a hard bead that cannot be crushed between your fingers. This differs dramatically from silk and rayon which leaves a bead that can be easily crushed between your fingers.

The drycleaning process is perfectly acceptable for all microfibers. I have found that some polyesters tend to gray and dull in drycleaning, more so then in wetcleaning.

When drycleaning, microfibers follow the look of the fabric. A silk look should be drycleaned in a silk load and satin should be turned inside out and cleaned in a net bag.

Knit fabrics should also be drycleaned in a net bag and run on a short cycle. Use normal heat for drying, but remove immediately after drying and hang up to avoid wrinkling.

The wetcleaning process can successfully be used on polyester, nylon and acrylics. Even garments made of polyester with “Spot Clean Only” labels can be wetcleaned.

Wedding gowns with unserviceable beading to drycleaning should be wetcleaned to avoid damage to the beading. Microfiber fabrics should be dried on a low heat setting and removed from the dryer when 90 percent dry. The garment should be hung up after drying to avoid wrinkles.

The biggest spotting problem on microfiber fabrics containing polyester, nylon or acrylic is dryside staining. This includes oil, paint and plastic based stains.

Wetside stains usually do not have an affinity for the fabric.

Treat spotting procedures as you would for a delicate fabric. Use a silk brush for tamping and brushing. Satin fabrics should be spotted on the opposite side. Pile should be brushed across the ribs.

The safest mechanical action is tamping and is the best for dryside stain removal.

White microfiber fabrics can be bleached using sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate.

Sodium hypochlorite bleach can be used, but concentration is an important factor.

When spot bleaching, dilute 6 percent chlorine concentration down to a 1 percent concentration. Then use a few drops in a six-ounce bottle with water.

Higher concentrations of chlorine bleach cause yellowing on polyester and nylon. In a bath bleach, use one ounce of a 1 percent concentration per gallon of water.

If yellowing occurs using sodium hypochlorite, neutralize using sodium hydrosulphite.