National Clothesline

Manufacturers produce a variety of spotting chemicals that are effective when used properly.

The problem is that improper use sets stains and creates discolorations that cannot be corrected.

The concept to understand is that there may be a number of chemicals for a particular staining but some products may differ according to the manufacturer. It is also important to know what chemical has to be neutralized and what to use for the neutralizing process.

The basic tannin formula is a mixture of an acid with a neutral lubricant. The acids used in most tannin formulas are weak and will not affect the dye on most fabrics including silk and wool. The tannin formulas are used with mechanical action to break up the tannin staining. The tannin formulas will not set protein staining.

Acetic acid is a very important chemical used for tannin stains. On many tannin stains it can even be more effective than prepared tannin formulas, especially for wine and hard drinks.

You can purchase acetic acid at 28, 56, or 99% glacial acetic. Acetic acid in the range of 56% and higher will dissolve acetate fabrics and should not be used.

When teaching spotting classes, I tell my students to dilute 28% acetic with 50% water to obtain a 14% use. This will eliminate an acetic acid odor that spotters object to.

Acetic acid is used with a neutral lubricant and mechanical action. Acetic acid is also a very effective acid to use when neutralizing alkali.

This is a tannin formula made up of acid, lubricant and alcohol. It can be very effective on many tannin stains and ink.

The problem with general formula is the alcohol can discolor dyes on fabrics, especially silk and acetate. The acid used in general formula is very weak, but the alcohol content makes it very dangerous.

General formula will also set protein and albuminous stains, making them impossible to remove.

Unless you are certain you have a tannin stain, do not use general formula. Test color on an unexposed seam before using general formula.

There are products sold by several manufacturers that are listed as a safe rust remover. The ingredient of this product is oxalic acid. It is not safe on all colors on fabrics and should be tested before use.

Oxalic acid works on rust stains very slowly. Oxalic acid is most effective for many tannin stains and is used as the next acid after acetic. It is accelerated by the heat of the steam gun.

I have found that this has more use as a tannin formula then as a rust remover. It need only be flushed to remove from the fabric.

This is a product consisting of diluted hydrofluoric acid. It is the most effective agent for rust and also useful for some tannin stains. It can be used on most fabrics including wool and silk, but cannot be used on metallics or glass and may discolor cashmere. It must be tested before use.

This rust remover can not be replaced by color safe rust remover. It is also the most effective acid used with titanium sulphate.

Rust remover can not effectively be rinsed out of all fabrics after spotting. It tends to remain in the fabric and can be dangerous to customers. It should be flushed thoroughly with the steam gun and neutralized with the protein formula or ammonia.

Many manufacturers produce protein formulas which are mild alkalis and lubricants. There are fairly safe to most fabrics except wool and silk.

They are effective for protein and albuminous stains, including milk, egg, blood, perspiration and urine. It cannot be used on tannin stains since it will set the stain, making it difficult to remove.

It usually can be flushed from a fabric and does not have to be neutralized.

Ammonia is purchased 28% and is more alkaline than protein formulas. It is more aggressive on protein staining than protein formulas but more dangerous to dyes especially on silks, wools and red colors. It is used with lubrication and is also effective for soil removal.

Ammonia accelerates hydrogen peroxide. After ammonia is used it should be flushed and neutralized with an acid to prevent yellowing.

Liquid enzymes are used for protein stains and are safer than protein formulas and ammonia. However, it does not have the same stain removing properties on perspiration and urine stains.

It can be used with heat and mechanical action and need only be flushed to remove from the fabric. The heat used should not exceed 140°F.

It needs more time to be as effective as a protein formula. For general protein spotting and time efficiency, it may be better to use protein formulas and ammonia. Enzyme formulas are usually more expensive than protein formulas, but much safer on delicate fabrics.

This product is safe on all fabrics and colors not affected by water. It is mixed with warm water, a little glycerin and applied to a fabric as directed by the manufacturer. Wait a half hour and flush.

It is effective on most protein stains except perspiration and urine.

These dryside agents are safe to all fabrics. They will affect pigment and surface prints.

When used with water it releases alcohol that will affect color on silk and acetate. When using with water the fabric should be tested first.

Darker color paint removers are stronger and more aggressive than lighter color paint removers. When used with water, it can help remove dye stains but can also set protein and albuminous stains.