How to handle those winter wools
Wool refers to the hair fiber obtained from sheep, angora goat (mohair), camel
hair and alpaca. Angora is classified as a fur fiber but the handling is
similar to wool.
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When any wool is brought in for cleaning examine the garment or blanket
carefully. Look for any white residue which might indicate the presence of
mildew or insect damage.
Examine for any areas that might have been attacked by moth larvae.
Check for any matting or felting which indicates the item may have been washed
at home.
Use stain stickers to identify all stains that may require pre-spotting.
Pre-spotting stains before drycleaning will eliminate the possibility of set
stains.
Odor
Check if you detect any odor, possibly mildew or moth ball crystals. While in
storage with very little ventilation, moth ball crystals can affect dyes on
wools. This occurs because moth ball crystals release chemicals that turn into
chlorine gas.
Spotting
Wool can be effectively spotted if you avoid those chemicals most likely to
damage wool.
A bristle spotting brush can be used for tamping and brushing. When brushing
soft wool, angle the brush so only the outside edge of the bristles contacts
the fabric. This will avoid chafing or rough areas.
Protein stains
When removing protein stains such as perspiration, eggs, milk, blood, etc.,
avoid using ammonia and protein formulas.
Use neutral-based liquid or powdered enzymes.
Protein procedure
1. Flush.
2. Neutral lubricant.
3. Mechanical action.
4. Flush.
5. Enzyme spotter.
6. Flush.
7. Hydrogen peroxide; test.
8. Heat.
9. Flush.
We avoid using ammonia to accelerate hydrogen peroxide since it often produces
yellowing on whites and color loss on colored fabrics.
Tannin procedure
The tannin procedure is usually safe for wool, but some chemicals need testing.
Common tannin stains are coffee, tea, liquor, juice, hard and soft drinks.
1. Flush.
2. Neutral lubricant.
3. Mechanical action.
4. Flush.
5. Tannin formula or acetic acid and neutral lubricant.
6. Mechanical action.
7. Flush.
8. Oxalic acid; test.
9. Heat.
10. Flush.
11. Rust remover; test.
12. Heat.
13. Flush.
14. Neutralize area with protein formula.
15. Hydrogen peroxide; test.
16. Heat.
17. Flush.
Dryside stains
Use light-colored oily type paint removers. Stronger darker colored paint
removers can be difficult to rinse out of the fabric.
Dryside procedure
1. Oily type paint remover.
2. Mechanical action.
3. Oily type paint remover and amyl acetate.
4. Mechanical action.
5. Dryclean.
Color change
Alkali. Contact with alkali causes yellowing and color change on wool. To correct this,
flush the area and then use a mild acid such as acetic or a tannin formula to
neutralize the color change.
Household bleach (sodium hypochlorite). Contact with household bleach can permanently damage wool.
To attempt correction of yellowing on white fabrics, flush the area, then use a
mild acid and flush area again. Then use a reducing bleach such as sodium
bisulphate or sodium hydrosulphate.
Drycleaning
Wool should be run in a moisture-free load, three to five minutes, and dried at
140°F.
Make sure that the load is free of moisture by running hard-finished fabrics
before the wools are run. Check the linings and pockets for breaks and wrinkles
which indicate moisture.
