Trim problems on suede and leather
In addition to problem buttons, manufacturers use other types of trim materials
on suede and leather that can present a problem to the leather cleaner. Many of
these are similar to the trim
materials used on cloth garments that present a problem when drycleaning or
wetcleaning.
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So let’s approach this from the side that you are most familiar with, the drycleaning
side. Remember to keep the steel door from closing on your brain when you apply
your knowledge of cloth cleaning to leather cleaning.
Trim items to be on the lookout for are buckles and other trim made of pot
metal. These may give the appearance of being a massive sturdy metal item, but
they can be quite fragile and easily broken by mechanical action while tumbling
in the drycleaning or wetcleaning machine during the cleaning and drying
cycles. These items can also be damaged when in pressing.
Pressing garments that have such metal ornaments and buttons can be a problem
when the press head comes down and they are crushed. Furthermore, the edges of
metal trim items, in many cases, are rather sharp and unless they are removed
or covered they can damage the surface of the leather while tumbling in the
cleaning and drying cycles. In addition, some garments contain hooks that are
used to fasten the garment when it is being worn. These hooks can cause damage
to the leather surface and tear skins in the cleaning process.
On many of the newer high-fashion garments, the finish is painted on or flocked
on. Designs are placed on the surface of the leather and their durability is
precarious at best. They can be lost in part or completely when the garment is
cleaned by a normal, acceptable leather cleaning method.
Garments containing painted-on or flocked-on designs or metallic finishes should
be brought to the attention of the customer and a customer release obtained. Of
course, a very short run is in order for these items. The chances are good that
at least part of the surface application will be lost, so the customer should
be made aware of this before the garment is accepted and a release obtained.
Another potential problem is associated with the use of removable shoulder pads
that are attached to the garment with Velcro. There is no problem with the
Velcro except that it is often attached to the garment with a solvent soluble
glue. When the garments are cleaned, the Velcro strips come loose and become
attached to the surface of the leather.
When this occurs, the garment should be recleaned on the theory that the solvent
that loosened the Velcro in the first place is likely to do so again and the
rerun will remove it from the surface of the garment.
However, this may not remove all of the solvent-soluble glue, especially if it
was a naked skin or a cuir savage leather. In this case the glue residue can be
treated with a leather spot remover designed to remove glue safely like
Royaltone Spot Wiz VDS.
This may or may not do the job. If it doesn’t and if you hadn’t heard of this problem before and received a customer release, you might be
buying an expensive coat that probably doesn’t fit you, your wife or a family member. So you want to be alert to garments
containing detachable shoulder pads that are attached with Velcro. Explain the
problem to the customer and obtain a release before processing.
A good procedure in this case would be to remove the Velcro with the leather
spot remover prior to cleaning to ensure that the Velcro pieces do not attach
themselves to the surface of the leather.
You could replace the Velcro with a solvent-resistant glue like Royaltone Perma
Hold Glue so that the next time the garment is cleaned you won’t have this problem.
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