National Clothesline

When a garment is received for analysis, the analyst attempts to determine the cause of the problem and the correction procedures for the problem. The correction procedures used by my laboratory are often easy to do and can be attempted by a drycleaner.

The first part in attempting to find a solution to the problem is understanding the fabric and what originally caused the problem.

Acetate is a heat sensitive fabric, thermoplastic in nature.

Problem. Delustering is a problem commonly found on acetate fabrics. It is caused by a combination of water and steam in pressing.

If water and steam are used separately, not in combination, the problem does not occur. If by chance the fabric is wet and then steamed a delustered area that shows up as color loss will occur.

Solution. Spray with 4 percent acetic acid. Allow to dry and dryclean.

Repeat if necessary.

Acrylic is a heat sensitive fabric that looks like wool if made into knitted fabrics.

Problem. Acrylic is usually heat-set at a very low temperature and is subject to stretching.

Solution. Place on the buck of the pressing machine and gather in stretched areas so little waves or ripples are created.

Use a hand iron, held a few inches from the fabric, and lightly apply steam from the iron while vacuuming. Do not touch the fabric while attempting this procedure.

Angora

Angora is the hair or fur from an angora rabbit.

Problem. Shrinkage

Solution. Soak in warm water. Mix with a cationic detergent and softening agent. Soak for 15 minutes and then extract. Dry in a warm dryer for two minutes. Place on the buck of the pressing machine or on a steam air finisher if possible. Steam and pull the fabric, then vacuum.

Chenille is a knit fabric with a pile yarn.

Problem. Loops unravel and pull away from fabric.

Solution. Use a latch type needle to pull yarns from the front of the fabric to the back.

Cotton

Cotton is a vegetable fiber.

Problem. Acids cause a color change or temporary color change.

Solution. Flush the area and apply a mild alkali such as ammonia or protein formula.

Problem. Dye bleeding after wetcleaning. This usually occurs if cottons are allowed to soak in water rather than being agitated.

Solution. Wetclean the fabric again using extra agitation and a long extraction. Dry quickly on a steam air finisher.

Denim is a durable, twill weave cotton fabric with blue dyed yarns and white undyed yarns.

Problem. Color loss in drycleaning or wetcleaning

Solution. Put garment in water with several ounces of liquid blueing. Do not rinse fabric, extract lightly and dry.

Fusible fabrics are two fabrics held together by an adhesive binder.

Problem. Separation and puckering due to a breakdown of the adhesive binder.

Solution. Apply head pressure from a press or iron, use top steam, vacuum with the head down. Next try a hot-head press if the fabric permits. Sometimes spraying with a little water-soluble sizing may help.

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill weave fabric.

Problem. Shine occurs when the surface nap wears away or flattens.

Solution. First, try spraying with water while steaming and brushing with a velvet brush.

Second, spray the area with 14 percent acetic acid. Allow to dry and dryclean.

Rayon

Rayon is synthetic fabric made from cellulose.

Problem. Discolorations occur when water contacts the fabric and causes the sizing to shift.

Solution. Use a fogging process. Steam the affected area with a steam gun held a few inches from the fabric and dry with air. Wetclean as a last resort.

Problem. Steam causes skins to shrink.

Solution. Spray on 14 percent acetic acid. Carefully stretch the skin. Add neutral spray. Allow to dry and then dryclean.

Problem. Glue transfer to outer skin.

Solution. Soak in perchlorethylene solvent and then reclean.

Wool is an animal fiber

Problem. Pilling and chafing.

Solution. Use a straight edge razor or an electric razor. Hold fabric taut when attempting correction.

Problem. Discoloration from contact with an alkali.

Solution. Flush the area and apply a mild acid such as acetic or tannin formula.

Problem. Color loss.

Solution. We have been successful in restoring color on black or red leather by using shoe polish. This can be applied with a Q-tip. Color loss on leather can also be restored using dye pads.

Problem. Staining on leather.

Solution. Instead of looking to remove stains such as paint, try to cover it with a leather dye or shoe polish.