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Dealing with dark areas on leather
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A common natural skin condition is known as dark areas. These dark areas are
found primarily in naked skin leathers and cuir savage leathers.
By definition, a naked skin leather has no surface finish and all the color is
dyed into the skin. A cuir savage leather has a slight surface finish or a
buffed surface to give it a satin like sheen.
The dark areas that occur in these leathers are usually confined to individual
skins. They show up in some of the skin panels that are sewn together to form a
garment, such as a coat or jacket.
Certain portions of these panels contain dark blotchy areas. These dark areas
will often be near the seam of the panel. When they are, the dark areas will
abruptly stop at the seam and not cross over to the next panel as they would if
the dark area was a stain due to spillage.
Therefore, it can be concluded that the dark area is caused by something other
than spillage after the panels are sewn together. Instead, it must have
occurred before the garment was ever worn and before the panels were ever sewn
together.
Further evidence that this is the case can be obtained by examining a naked skin
or cuir savage leather garment that is hanging on the rack at the new clothing
store. These garments have never been worn by a human and yet they have these
dark areas on some of the panels.
These dark areas will vary in shade and intensity as well as size but they will
be there for the discerning eye to see. And they will become darker and more
noticeable as the owner of the garment wears it. This is because these areas of
skin have an affinity for and attract the tanning oils during the tanning
process and body oils during use. These dark areas tend to absorb and attract
body oils from perspiration of the wearer as well as any other oily films they
may contact in use.
Causes of dark areas
These dark areas originate during the time the animal was wearing the skin and
to some degree during the tanning process.
The dark areas are usually associated with skin areas where the animal’s limbs have rubbed against its sides. These dark areas are also associated with
areas where the skin may have been abraded and then buffed during the tanning
process to remove bumps and high spots to provide a more uniform skin thickness
on smooth leathers.
“All that is very interesting,” you may say, “but so what?”
Well, what if your customer brings you a naked skin or cuir savage leather
garment and it has these very typical and characteristic dark areas on some of
its panels?
The customer will assume that the dark areas are stains and that the dark areas
will be removed in the cleaning process.
Both of these assumptions are erroneous and full of potential for bad customer
relations and claims.
You must show your customer these dark areas and explain: how they originated;
how they were there when the garment was purchased; how wearing the garment
accentuated them; how they do not go across a seam; and how the dark areas will
not go away when cleaned but will probably be even darker and more noticeable
after cleaning!
Any cures?
Some leather cleaning chemicals, equipment and procedures can minimize and
lighten these dark areas. However, few leather cleaning operations have either
the time or the facilities to employ them. So you must prepare the customer for
the inevitable before the fact.
There are also some after-cleaning refinishing materials and spray techniques
that can cover these dark areas.
However, these for the most part employ pigmented paints that will cover the
dark areas but will also add material to the surface of the skin with the
inevitable result that the skin will feel stiffer and look and feel different.
None of these after-cleaning refinishing techniques should be employed without
first obtaining customer approval and a release signature.
You are now ready to accept suede and leather for cleaning without fear of
problems due to natural skin conditions. You should explain natural skin
conditions to the customer at the counter before cleaning, thereby avoiding
unnecessary complaints and claims due to misunderstandings resulting from lack
of knowledge at the counter and lack of communication with the customer
regarding what they should expect when they leave their valuable suede or
leather garments with you.
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