National Clothesline

I have been licensed by New York State education department to teach spotting and drycleaning. I am certified by EPA to teach certification courses to drycleaners.

In my dealings with drycleaners I have found that most cleaners know the proper handling of perc but are unfamiliar with the dangers of handling other chemicals. It is wise to note that although a chemical is not put on a list of being hazardous it does not mean you should handle it without thought or concern.

Any chemical routinely used can be hazardous if used incorrectly. A safe chemical that is routinely used can combine with other chemicals resulting in a chemical reaction that is not safe.

This consists of water with free oxygen. It comes in a straight strength of 3% 10 volume used as an antiseptic. It also can be purchased at 6% 20 volume and 30% 100 volume.

Strong peroxide of 6% and higher can affect your skin, causing a burning and itching sensation. When peroxide contacts ammonia, there is a rapid oxidation and release of oxygen.

There is no problem when peroxide is 3%, but higher concentrations can pose a health risk. When strong peroxide is left on a fabric, it can result in weakening of the fabric.

All chemical action is increased by heat. Every 18°F rise in temperature doubles the chemical action. A 6% peroxide used at 100°F is twice as strong as one used at 82°F.

Acetic acid

Acetic acid in a 5% concentration is vinegar. The 28% is used for spotting.

Above 28%, acetic acid can dissolve acetate and tri-acetate fabrics. Above 28% can also be caustic and dangerous to handle.

When acetic acid contacts ammonia, it produces rapid neutralization. A mild acetic acid can be used to neutralize a color change caused by an alkali, but it should not be mixed with an alkali.

Hydrofluoric acid is the strongest acid used on the spotting board. It is diluted with water by the manufacturer but it is still very strong due to its chemical nature.

When rust remover gets under your fingernails it can cause serious chemical burns. Anyone who has ever had a chemical burn knows that they will have a painful reaction that will go away after a long period of time.

Spotters using rust remover are not aware that it does not easily rinse out of the fabric. Even after thorough flushing, the area must be neutralized. I have found that the best way to do that is to use a protein formula. The mild alkali and lubricant present in the formulation removes the acid residue.

The acid should not be used on glass, metallic fabrics and trimming. Always test before using.

This is a very useful alkali used for protein stains and soil. When ammonia is sealed in a bottle and not opened carefully, it can result in rapid evaporation which can affect your eyes and nasal passages.

I recommend that drycleaners dilute their 26% to 13% by mixing with water one to one. Ammonia can bleed dyes on wool, silk, bright and vivid colors. Test before use.

This is a very useful solvent used for paint, nail polish and glue. It is highly flammable and should not be stored near a boiler or anyone who is smoking. It should not be used on any fabric with a surface print.

This agent contains solvents and alcohol. I find that drycleaners use too much of it. It should only be used for dryside stains.

When it is used in general pre-spotting, serious problems can occur. When using too much paint remover, you subject yourself to breathing in solvents as well as creating odors in your drycleaning machine.

The acid nature of the paint remover can cause problems with your still, sometimes causing corrosion.

When paint remover is used with water, it releases alcohol that can cause damage to some dyes on fabrics. Paint remover should not be used for pre-spotting before wetcleaning. If you do, you are putting solvents in your wastewater system.

This is chemically sodium hypochlorite which is commonly found in household bleach. As a household bleach, it is found in a 6% concentration. It can be a very effective bleach if used in the proper concentration.

When used for wetcleaning or spotting it should first be diluted to a 1% concentration. You can do this by mixing five parts water to one part bleach. Then use the 1% concentration to the amounts recommended by the manufacturer.

As a board bleach, put 5 drops of a 1% concentration in a standard spotting bottle mixed with water.

Chlorine bleach becomes very active when mixed with acid or hydrogen peroxide. If mixed with ammonia, it breaks down and releases chlorine gas.

To remove the last traces of chlorine after wetcleaning, use an acid in the rinse water to accelerate the last remaining residue out of the fabric.