National Clothesline

Oil stains are one of the most common stains that are not removed by the drycleaner.

Part of the problem relates to lack of proper identification and improper attempts at stain removal.

Oil stains fall into two categories. One category is non-oxidizing oil such as machine oil, mineral oil, motor oil and baby oil. These oil stains do not oxidize and are easily removed in just the drycleaning process. Non-oxidizing oils do not pick up oxygen from the air causing it to chemically change and set into the fabric.

Oxidizing oils are cooking fish and vegetable oils. These includes soybean, peanut, olive oil, fish oil, salad oil, butter, etc. These oils oxidize, which means that heat and age will change the oil into an insoluble staining matter.

Oil stains usually are yellow or brown, have no feel and are absorbed in the fabric. They are commonly mistaken for tannin stains such as coffee, tea and soft drinks.

Oil stains frequently form a cross because they slowly absorb in the fabric, following the yarns of the fabric. This is not always a positive method of identification.

Another way you can examine for an oil stain is to hold the fabric up to a ceiling light and observe whether the stain is translucent and even. This differs from a tannin stain which will be uneven and show apparent rings. A black light will glow when a fresh oil stain is present.

If you cannot positively identify the stain, it is better to attempt unidentified stain removal using the dryside spotting method.

I ran several tests on oil to determine what oxidizes the oil. The tests showed that the fastest way oil oxidizes is by the heated state that it is in when it contacts the fabric.

For example, hot pizza sauce, hot butter and other heated oils immediately oxidize when they contact a fabric.

If oil contacts a fabric in a cool state, it takes a period of time to oxidize.

The heat of the steam gun and the heat of drycleaning will also oxidize oil. The drycleaning dryer uses temperatures of 140°F and higher, which promotes oxidation. The heat of the steam gun and use of wetside chemicals will immediately oxidize oils.

The best lubricant is oily-type paint remover. The darker the color of the lubricant, the stronger the product usually is. Light colored paint removers are not as strong and may need more work for stain removal.

Do not use water with oily-type paint removers since it release alcohol which is dangerous to the fabric and will set the stain.

Amyl acetate is the best solvent to use with oily-type paint remover. This increases the penetration of the oily-type paint remover as well as aiding stain removal.

There are many knowledgeable people who have found good results at stain removal by using a potassium hydroxide solution. It is prepared by dissolving one-quarter teaspoon of potassium hydroxide to one quart of butyl alcohol. It is recommended that a chemist prepare it for you.

I have personally not obtained the same results that these people have. This solution when contacting water can easily cause damage to a fabric.

The only mechanical action that removes oil stains is vigorous tamping. Brushing is not effective. This is why oil stains on delicate fabrics are more difficult to remove than on durable fabrics.

If the oil stain is set in the fabric, apply oily-type paint remover and amyl acetate. Let this solution remain on the fabric for a period of time. Keep the area wet with this solution by adding more when the area begins to dry.

1. Oily-type paint remover.

2. Mechanical action.

3. Oily-type paint remover and amyl acetate.

4. Mechanical action.

5. Dryclean the garment to remove residue.

Oil stains are difficult to remove on all fabrics, including natural and synthetic. It is more difficult to remove oil stains on delicate fabrics due to their lack of ability to withstand mechanical action.

Oxidized oil stains for removal require the use of nonionic detergents. This is not quite as effective as removing oil stains in the drycleaning process.