National Clothesline

This month I am offering excerpts from my manual “Professional Guide To Dye Restoration On Fabrics, Suedes And Leathers.”

This manual was written based on my 40 years of experience as a garment analyst and restoration expert for drycleaners, museums and collectors and it uses new and innovative techniques that are simple and easy to employ.

To my knowledge this is the only manual ever written on restoration geared specifically for the professional drycleaner.

The ability to restore fabrics, suedes and leather gives the professional drycleaner an untapped market for not only making money but also saving claims on damaged garments.

As a garment analyst, I have been called upon by many consumers to attempt dye restoration on their garments, furniture covers, pocketbooks and other items that have discolored. I have also attempted dye restoration on car seat covers that have discolored.

Drycleaners also send me items that have discolored.

Discolorations can occur from a number of sources including perspiration, spillage of food and beverage and amateurish attempts at stain removal.

Customers who call upon drycleaners to dye their items are usually persuaded not to or the customers are charged an expensive amount when the item is sent out for dyeing.

Drycleaners must bear in mind that replacement of these items and reupholstering furniture is very costly. Many consumers will pay a reasonable amount for restoring even an inexpensive garment if they like it and it looks well on them.

Calling in an outside professional to restore items can also be very costly. As an example I was called upon to dye a car seat cover that had discolored. The consumer told me that the car manufacturer wanted $500. I was able to do it for a much lower amount.

The easiest method of restoring color is by incorporating oil. Oil tends to darken fabrics, suede and leather and enhances the existing color.

I have successfully used this method many times when restoring color. There are many different ways to obtain oil for coloring. These range from a simple process that consumers use to a more complicated method that a professional drycleaner can use. Oil works well on silks, rayons, suede and leather. On fabrics with chafed yarns, the oils dull the chafed areas.

Peanuts. The oil from an ordinary peanut can darken a fabric, suede or leather and reduce the intensity of the discolored area. I have encountered many leathers used in apparel, furniture and car seats that have light areas from friction, abrasion and perspiration.

To utilize the oil from a peanut, just split the nut in half and rub the smooth end lightly on the affected area. You can also rub your finger on the peanut to obtain oil and then rub the affected area with your finger.

Mineral oil. This is a safe and inexpensive source of oil and can be used to make an oil pad. The mineral oil can be applied directly to a powder puff, thick towel or small foam-type circular pad used to apply make-up.

The oil can be applied in small amounts to the surface of the cloth or foam that you are using. It can then be applied to an affected area of the fabric, suede or leather.

Castor oil. Thinner than mineral oil, it can also be used to make an oil pad. Castor oil can also be mixed with water to obtain a less oily pad. Mix two or three parts water with one part castor oil for this solution.

Professional drycleaners can make oil pads using petroleum solvent mixed with mineral oil. It is important while working with solvent that all EPA regulations and safety precautions be followed.

In a bottle, mix three parts petroleum solvent with one part mineral oil. Soak the powder puff. Squeeze out the powder puff and dry thoroughly in the drycleaning dryer. Put the dried powder puff in a sealed bottle to prevent the oil from drying out.

Before you apply oil to an item, first test on an unexposed area to insure that you are not making the area too dark or oily. When you are using a peanut or a pad containing oil, it must be applied lightly using several strokes. Do not rub with pressure. Otherwise it will become too oily and will darken the area too much.

Using several light strokes will gradually darken the area to the extent that you want.

There are professional suede and leather suppliers who will sell you water- and oil-based sprays for suedes.

You can also make your own mixture for spraying. You can mix three parts water with one part castor oil in a spray bottle. Mix and shake thoroughly and spray it onto the suede. Let the area dry thoroughly. Use the suede brush to raise the suede nap.

If you wanted to darken an entire suede, I recommend that you obtain the product from a professional suede and leather supplier. If you spray an entire garment with the oil mixture, allow it to air dry and then put it into a dryer to soften and raise the nap.

For information on obtaining this restoration manual, contact me at the phone number or e-mail address above.